Saturday, 20 November 2010

A New Beginning

After a lay off from climbing I am starting a new blog.
For those who were not aware I had a break from climbing due to an injury from playing football. I successfully managed to get a rugby injury from football??? I ended up with a cuff tear in my shoulder with some ligament and tendon damage. So I have been unable to do any form of exercise. I played on for 30 minutes with no treatment or stopping the game and people call football players pussies.
I am now a weak fat git again!!

However its not all bad news, after my lay off I am climbing again! :D
I went to Stanage high neb last Saturday where I soloed a VD, a severe and a HS my shoulder was hurting after this session so I had a few days off.
I got a few good photos on Saturday there is one at the top and here is another:
The conditions are absolutely perfect for grit and photos. The sun was out but the temperatures were cold. it was amazing a great day to get out of bed with my hangover.

On wednesday this week I decided to try a wall session. I got to the wall and was warming up on the bouldering wall. I did a few easy problems and felt ok so I decided to try the yellow circuit. I fell off on the last move and this was only because I could not fell my fingers. I was pretty happy and confident that my shoulder could take a climbing session so I did a few more problems. When a few more HUMS Members turned up I decided to hit the top ropes.
First I did a 6a slab ran up it no problem at all.
Then my mate Tom pointed me to a new route this was a vertical wall no grade given at the moment. It looked about 6b from the ground. I was not sure that I wanted to push my self so hard yet so I thought about it then I went for it.
The route starts with a couple of crimps for your hands and smears for your feet. After you get past the first 3/4 meters of technical climbing you get a semi rest and some easier climbing for 2 meters.
Then comes what I thought was the crux starting from an undercut you have a big move to a reasonable size crimp then you have to get your feet very high on smears. This is low percentage and you really have to trust you feet. Its a big to a big move to a good hold.
Following this you have 2 meters of easier climbing till a tough top move. It felt 6b+ to me so taking into account my current lack of climbing and strength its probably a technical 6b. Nice route.
I did this with one fall at the crux I was very happy with my climb. More importantly I cam off the climb unscathed so I kept climbing.
I also did a 6a+ clean after one fall and being lowered off and I ran up a 6b through the roof.
I was pretty knackered after the 6b so I sat around watching people bouldering for a while till it got to pub o'clock. The real test for my shoulder was the next day. On thursday it felt fine this was a real bonus it ached a bit but no sharp pains.

Today I did a core session for the first time I also went for a very short run. So now the recovery starts.


No comments:

Post a Comment