Thursday, 12 May 2011

Living life one fall at a time

So I have not posted for a couple of weeks. A lot has gone on lately and my mind has been playing up. My posts have been getting a bit emo and things have been getting weird.

So recently I took a decent size fall. I want to push myself to the limit and it comes with risks. This was my first E1 onsight attempt of the year and it is proper E1 not another soft touch. I took a fall from about 15ft and hit the ground quite hard. A few bruises are all I got but it hurt. My head was shook and body felt frail. I got straight on another route and did it fast. It was only HVD so it was good to get back on it.

The biggest mistake was the fact I was on the route. I had been climbing pretty poorly all weekend. I had fallen on two VS’s in the previous two days. Here is my account of the previous tow falls.

Fall 1 of the weekend.
At Stanage on the Saturday I warmed up by following Tom Hobbs up Inverted V a classic VS and I decided to give the route round the corner a go as it looked good. The route is some VD climbing into a hand traverse finishing up a bold slabby arête.
I dispatched the climb to the hand traverse no problem. I placed a good cam and started the hand traverse. I got half way and ran out of good foot holds so I quickly placed a cam and reverse the traverse to rest and de-pump.
After resting I felt a little more I went for it. I reached the place I ran out of footholds before and smeared on pebbles and bumps. Then the smears ran out but a high rail was reached for my feet. Feeling committed I kept going with my feet high 1 hand jammed in the crack and 1 hand pulling on a shit slopey crimp. I then stupidly got my foot high and ended up in a crap position completely off balance and un able to move. After being spat off of the traverse and taking a reasonable sized fall (2m+) into space. I gave up and want off to do other routes.

Fall 2 top of the pebble no mat ground fall.
This was a typical bouldering slip read the move wrong but the pebble is pretty high and I hit the ground fall and it hurt a little. About 2m+

Fall 3 VS at
Den Lane
Head not in the game could not commit to a tough move above average gear. Tried to down climb and slipped. The gear held at least. It was a stupid, pointless fall on a move that was not that hard. 0.5m fall into space.

Fall 4 the big one
I was on éclair which is a bold but sweat looking E1 Slab completely my style, nicely bold perfect for the onsight? I got up to a move at about 4 metres off of the ground where I was on thin holds for both my hand and feet. I stood around to a while, then tried a move half way through the committing rock over and reach realised it would not work. I slowly went back to the good smears for a think. I realised my shoes were slightly loose so mid route unprotected I tightened my shoes. Balancing nicely on small holds I kept thinking but the pain in my toes was building.
I tried the same move again with my feat on higher but poorer footholds to begin with. As I was rocking over again I decided to back as I was the move did not feel right. I went a third time same move more committed. My bottom foot popped. That was it the time between loosing contact felt like forever. Fully committed feet 4.5 metres off the ground.
A load screen could be heard in the quarry. “FFFUUUUCCCKKKK!!!!” I slid down the face picking up speed nothing to grab nothing to slow me. Then I heard a load thud. I realised the sound was me hitting the ground. Dazed and confused I stood up. In pain from the heal palm and arse cheek that hit the ground.
I looked round to see a small child behind me and the first thing I said was Sorry to their parents for swearing. I think they understood why I swore and asked me if I was ok. In my eve so manly way I said rather weakly “I’m fine” hobbling around.

Well that is my weekend of falling described next post I might actually tell ya about something I actually got to the top off.


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