Monday, 11 July 2011

3 days on time for a day off

Rokt - 4.5 hours. I spent the first 10 mins warming up. Next I repeated the red slab problem and did some easy steep problems.
I decided to work my weaknesses next so steep crimpy problems and pulled hard on small holds for 20 mins or so.
I had a short rest and then worked the traverses in the warm up room and flashed most of them. I got the black second try and I did not try the pink. The comp wall was shut for re-setting so I was a littel limited as I hate roof problems.
Andy turned up so I ask him if he would give me a belay on the lead wall. He was keen but wanted to warm up first so I worked some green traverses.
Once Andy was warmed we hit the lead wall. I climbed up and down a 6a to get going. Next I flashed a 6b on lead and down climbed a 5. I then got on the steep wall and managed to do all the moves on the 6b+. I took two rests and the rope but no falls. I bit more PE and I will get it.
Finished myself off by playing on the comp wall.

Started the day by reading in bed then headed to get breakfast. quietly not to wake Matthias. As I walked into the living room to my surprise there was Matthias as sleep on the sofa. I walked past quitely a bit confused and into the kitchen to make my breakfast.
Grabbed my food and went to sit on my chair and watch tv. Matthias was woken by the smell of bacon and asked me "Why am I sleeping on the sofa?".
Any way I headed out with Vicky to climb at froggatt. We arrived there to a bit of drizzle. Vix got on Sunset Crack HS and as she was getting to half height the sun came out. Next I got vix on Trapese direct which she did with a bit of psyching up. We played on Joes slab for a little bit. The friction was appauling never the less Vix got it on her second try. I repeated it once I remembered the move. We ended the froggatt trip with convincing Vix to lead Chequers Buttress HVS. She lead the route with no real issue. The temperature was getting really hot which is nice to bath in but the friction was appauling so we decide to move on.
We headed to Rubicon I repeated several problems that I had done the week before and got Vix to do the 6A+ knackered and feeble we headed back home.
We ended the day with a curry at memsahib. Excellent day all round!

Again climbing with Vix we headed out early. This time we headed north to Caley. I had never been to Caley so was rather psyched for a new venue. I warmed by leading central route VS 5a. I also High balled Sucker's Rib (font 5+) and Sucker's Wall (Font 4+) both onsight/flash. I was getting psyched for Angel wall (Font 5) which is HVS in old money and a worse landing.
The weather came in heavily and we had to leave.
We hit the Depot so I warmed up on the slab then I flashed the entire black ciruit (20 problems V1-V3). I then tried the ciruit board but quickly realised I was far too tired after 2.5 days of hard climbing. So I spent some time working harder problems and flashing some as well. I was tired but still managed 2.5hours so another good session.

Awesome weekend but absolutely spanked having a nice relaxing eveing in front of the TV.

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