Saturday, 2 July 2011

Training and coaching - Inspiration

I have been going through a lull in my inspiration of late and I felt I need to change some thing in my climbing to be back on it. So I booked a coaching session with Nik Jennings. I thought this would be a good opportunity to be told my weaknesses by someone else and get advice how to improve.

So on Thursday night I went to Rokt and had a session with the triple 8'er himself. He went through a warm up with me. Then told me to warm up on watch my movement and foot work. Once the blood was flowing he stuck me on a problem. Dint say anything just told me to try it. I failed epically. He went through some tactics with me then I had another go. This time much better. After a few more tries I could do every move and just need to link it.
The problem was graded Font 7A ... awesome!
We then moved on to steeper ground to the slightly overhanging wall he stuck me on another 7A. I got spanked. He explained what I was doing wrong. I worked it and could do a couple of moves but not strong enough for the problem also not locking in my flags properly.
Finally he stuck me on a hard problem on the comp wall again I was getting spanked. Again he spotted the issue and I could get one move further.

So after a while bouldering we had a break and he explained my issues. He reckons my core is weak and I do not engage it properly and I have poor finger strength. Also I do not commit to my Egyptians properly.

This was good I have been told my weaknesses and I have something to work on.

He then stuck me on the lead wall. He set me at a vertical 6b+. It was a fight but I flashed the route. After that I had a go on a 6c+/7a. I managed to work all the moves to the crux and a couple after finishing at about three quarters of the way up the wall.
A successful session I thought I have been advised my weakness's and I know what I need to do to improve.

So today I decided to try something different. I went bouldering on limestone. This was a first but not the only first of the day. I went to Rubicon as the guides showed it having a few problems in my grade to go at. I warmed up on the long juggy traverse then started working a 6A but I was getting know where so I worked a 5+ I got it after a bit of work. I then saw two guys doing a 6A+ I wanted to work. I saw one guy do the moves. Then his mate.
Psyched I asked if I could grab a spot and if they could go through the moves. Thinking I knew the way I set off. Steep jug hauling on a long path. I did it my first 6A+ flash ... AWESOME!!!!
The guys then showed me the sequence for the 6A I was doing it wrong. Got it second go with the new beta just failing do to a greasy hold and fingers popping. Next I also flashed a font 5.
The guys then showed me a Font 6A/+ eliminate which I worked for a while. Took a countless number of tries and 4/5 different sets of beta but eventually it went. Awesome.
I also worked a couple of 6B's, a 6B+ and a dyno. Could not complete them so something to go back for.
All in all a good day out. My Psyche is back!
I am not saying that I would not of got the flas without Nik's coaching session but the only reason I did the crux move was due to a Stronger eyghtian then I ever did before my training session. So the answer is not I probably would not of flashed it with out him.

Tomorrow is a training session with Martin at Rokt ... My fingers feel sore already ... Bring on the pain!!!

No comments:

Post a Comment