Last weekend was spent in
North Wales. Here is Saturday!
My weekend started with a trip to Vicky’s dads where we crashed on Friday night. After a poor night sleep I got up around 8 and after a shower got fed a full fry up and a big bowl of cereal. Awesome.
Both Vicky and I started the day with some unfinished business. Last year we visited Penmaen Head and tried flow stone shuffle a 12m long overhanging pump fest with a constant flow of power sapping moves. I had previously spent quite some time on this route over a year before. Vicky had been on it briefly on a couple of occasions
I warmed up by onsighting a 5 and a 5+ then I went for it. I thought I would climb it bolt to bolt to remind myself of the sequence. I got the first bolt clipped which is just before the crux (for me). I went for the crux in what I thought was my sequence I worked out last year, but my foot slipped. Slightly disappointed I sat on the rope and worked out the move. I spotted a foothold high off to my right and decided to try that I also changed my starting right hand hold and I got it. I then climbed the rest of the route setting the draws with out a fall. As I was lowering off I marked a few holds to remind me for on my red point. I had a nice long rest while I de-pumped and took on some sugar.
About 15-20mins later I went for it. I clipped the first bolt. Stepped down to the half rest before the crux and went for it. Grabbed the hold out right, high left foot, really high right rocked my weight over it. I moved my right hand in to a poor side pull crimp and a big reach and slap far out left. I hit the hold right and stood up at the half rest and clipped the second bolt. Then I went for it moving back right left hand over right onto a sloper right on to the crimp then slapped for the jug … Missed it forgot to sort my feet and I was off. Gutted I lowered off but I still felt fresh So I pulled the roped and went again.
I got the crux no problem second bolt clipped onto the sloper and sorted my feet into jug then the strenuous pumpy sequence really hits. I had refined my sequence for this when I set the draws. I also changed my clipping position to be much lower of a side pull.
I hit the side pull find turned my hip right in and leaned back to be set in positon. I then clipped the rope and fired through the next 4 moves.
RH crimp, Left hand sloper intermediate then straight into the undercut, match it sort feet slap for side pull out left.
Yes through all the hard moves then I moved my left had to the jug first.
WHAT THE FUCK are you doing!
Completely out of balance I start to panic trying to reset my feet pumped to all hell. I manage to get set and slap my left back down then get my right in the jug. Matched the jug, LH in the pocket then to the big flatties. Move across the flatties to the under cut in the roof and clip the chain and relax. GET IN! I was so close to fluffing it. A one year burden was lifted.
Then It was Vicky’s she went for a flash on the day after I got it. She fired through the crux no issue but then fluffed the third clip with a harder sequence. Hanging off the bolt I talked her through my sequence which was probably less powerful and more efficient. She went for it but realised she did not have the reach to clip from the same position as me. But the sequence was much easier and she got to the top for the first time in her three trips. She then swapped out some draws for longer ones and had a rest.
Then came her next redpoint attempt. She got it the strenuous third clip was fine the sequence worked and she thought off the pump and clipped the chain. NICE!
I then onsighted a 6a and we went for a lunch break.
Saturday after noon we headed to castle inn quarry. It was vickys lead but all the 6a’s/5+’s were taken so with no available warm up we decided to try a slabby 6b+. I offered to go up and set the draws. I was going to clip stick up but Vicky told me to go for the onsight. I went for it, it was a sharp, crimpy slab route consisting of thin moved to a very thin slabby boulder crux above the forth bolt moving to the fifth bolt. It took me a while to commit to the hard move but eventually I went for it.
Poor smear to crap tiny edge off of tiny crimps to a slopey pinch. I then crossed through to a small sloper for my left hand with awful feet. Completely out of balance I managed to clip the bolt with my left hand crossing over my right. I was fighting with everything I had to stay on. Clip got it spotted a thing crimp out left and carried on. To a steep finally with a mantel type move on a slopey hold at the very top. I clipped the chain. YYFY! 6b+ onsight after such a fight to tick my first 6b+ earlier that morning.
Vicky then go on it and managed to onsight it also.
We finished the day by onsighting two fantastic easier routes (5+ and 6a). Then packed up and headed toward the Pass where we were camping for the night. We had originally planed to head to Tremadog but after a call from Haydn we decided to climb in the pass instead.
After such a good day we treated our selves to a few pints of ale and a nice steak at the pub in nont peris which is usefully opposite the campsite.
Good day ended with good beer good food and good company (and a new guide book I could not afford)