Thursday, 25 August 2011

Last few weeks

I have not blogged for a while because basically I have not done anything. After I heard the pop in my finger I have taken it very easy. I had a two full weeks off without any form of climbing just some minor core work outs. I also did some home improvements which involved putting up a washing line, a pull up bar and a fingerboard being mounted. Photos are on my flickr ther is a link on the left hand of the page

Two weeks after the incident I was climbing again. I headed out to froggatt with Haydn and met up with Timmy there (he actually turned up).  We started but getting H up sunset slab I have done this a few times and it’s a nice solo but a gift at HVS? Anyway I gibbered my way up completely forgetting the moves but its straight forward enough. Haydn then gibbered his way up following some guy.
Haydn was keen to try strapiobante but it’s the pumpy as hell and complete the opposite to anything else at froggatt. He wanted to warm up properly first but we convinced him just to go for it.  He did he got pumped and he dropped off. Nick finished the lead and I cleaned it completely unpsyched for the route.
We moved on to two sided triangle which I managed to lead with a bit of confusion as to what’s in and what’s not and the start was 5b followed by a poorly protected 5b crux. I put some gear in the flake on the left is it in? The photos of the route on UKC show people putting gear in there so I guess so. The start is a kind of mantel off a poor sloper and on some smears nice balancey and hard you lean right over to a okay sloppy pocket rock over and get balanced then you are in the break. Next comes the crux you are on a break and you have a flake round the corner on the not within reach from the crux. I placed a small cam low in the flake then moved back half a step left. The move involves a high rock over with your right foot on a poor slopey pocket and your left hand palming down on a sloppy foot hold. Once you are stood on a you have to smear hard you now have a wide slopey hold above you head and you now have to commit to the sloppy foot hold you had just used for your left hand. It is a case of just stand up but feels unnerving as you will at least hit the least below you as you fall. I found a sneaking side pull on the arĂȘte which helped me balance the move felt soft 5b after the last move feeling 5b from here to the op is pretty straight forward just gear less. Nice route but is s basically 3 moves in 12metres.

Next we bouldered about in the sun but with my finger I quit quickly as crimping is a really bad idea. I opted for the next lead and went after a route I had been to get on for a while pedestal crack (HVS 5a) I got on it no problem then I was getting put off by nick as usual but my lack of climbing was telling as I did not read the move right and opted to rest with one of my bits of gear flying out but the other cam held. After sorting out my gear I re read the move which was straight forward something I should never of fallen off. Pissed off at my self I topped out and set up a belay for Haydn. I was attacking the crack far too directly. I did the usual mistake of listening to bloody Timmy rather than working it out on my own. The move was pretty simple. It was moving from a good jam for my right hand in the crack and using the good ledges out left for my feet to get higher before foot jamming in the crack. Straight forward 5a!!! It was simple to the top from here only hindered by my appalling rope work resulting in amazing rope drag on a straight up crack … FAIL!
The day ended with me dogging my way up chequers crack in agony as my finger was not happy.
So a good day out at Froggatt just short of inspiration there now.

The following week was pretty much the same as the week before. Lots of rest some pull ups lots of core and one climbing session however this was at the Roaches. Also on the Saturday night we went for Kasia’s house party and got pretty drunk meaning bad heads and tiredness the next day at the crag.
I went with Vicky and we picked up Dan Lane on the way past. If you get on with the climbing at the roaches it is the best crag on peak grit if you don’t you will hate it. The bouldering is world class. Boulders every where with fantastic problems that live up to and exceed the plantation at Stanage. The only reason the roaches if not as popular as Stanage is it is not 5 mins outside of Sheffield.
The day started with a bit of bouldering on the lower teir. I did a couple of easy problems then I went for 3 pocket slab. I have had three session on this problem so far but I have been hindered by weather and tiredness at the end of sessions. I soon realised I would not be able to do it o the day as it was very much a left handed problem and I cannot pull very hard with my left hand at the moment. Disappointed I moved to the upper teir to try a route to warm up. It was a HS 5a the route has a fingery boulder problem start at 5a this again was left hand intense but I made it with no real issue. This is followed by straight forward climbing to the top. Nice route.
Vicky then got on technical slab with the high neb finish. A very nice bold route when linked together.
I then belayed
Dan Lane
on Saul’s crack he did it with a fight at the crux but never really looked like coming off. He topped out and I tried to second. I was absolutely spanked by the crux. Dan abbed for his gear as Vicky refused to try and second it.
I lead central route next at VS 4b a little bold but protected well enough. The hardest part was route finding as it looks like the route has been climbed a hundred different ways with all the polished holds. Nice slab climbing no real hard moves good route.
We ended the day with Vicky leading Valkarie I was happy to belay but I really could not be arse with the route. It was hard when I lead it very solid top end VS so within my ability. I lead it clean a year before. Vicky got up the first pitch with a bit of a whimper but no real issue. I followed and made it up pulling on a draw as I really could not be arsed the first pitch is pretty wank. Vicky then lead the second pitch with no real issue except placing a bit too much gear giving here rope drag. I just could not be arsed with the route for some reason so swung around on the rope to save effort on the traverse. On lead I enjoyed the route. Seconding I thought it was a bit shit.

We called it a day after that route as it was getting late on and we were tired from a heavy night of drinking the night before.

Not the most successful two weeks but I have had worse.

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