Friday, 12 August 2011

New Routing and finger popping

Ok so recently I have been climbing quite a bit of sports climbing cause clipping bolts is awesome. As I said in my last blog I was so close to ticking a 7a that it was gutting not to get it.
Anyway I sent keen yoof Dan Lane (like his on facebook website!!) a text on last Friday seeing if he was keen to get out over the weekend to which he replied saying he would let me know later. So I got a message off him a few hours later to which he responded saying fancy clipping bolts on grit stone … I straight away replied with “so martin finally bolted the bridge”. I think he was a little disappointed with this response as I know he is not a fan of sports climbing in general and wanted an outburst from me. So keen as I said yes and planned to meet him the next morning.
The next morning I set off on the drive to Glossop were I picked up the keen yoof. We then headed out to New Mills Torr for bolt clipping and cleaning.
The bolts had been placed the day before and were just set that morning. WE started with the arêtes on the far side of the bridge from the parking. Dan clip-sticked his way up the route to set up a top rope and cleaned it on the way back down. I then climbed the right arête on top rope onsight feeling the route weighed in at around 6a+. I also pulled off a crimp as I climbed it. Dan then took the lead and onsighted the route with a better sequence at 6a he named it “Thin end of the wedge”. I then lead the route and found a slightly different sequence to Dan again at 6a.
Dan then worked the left arête this was a little harder and he got 3 quarters of the way up and decided to lower off. I then tried it on top rope I dogged a couple of moves but I did all the moves but decided not to lead it just yet. I felt the route was probably around 6c grade range.
We moved to the other side of the bridge. I clip-sticked my way to the top, set up a top rope and cleaned the lines as I was lowering off. As I was lowering off Dan’s mate James turned up and onsighted Dan’s route and shortly afterwards climbed the left arête which I reckoned to be 6c onsight on lead. He believed the route to be 6b+/c and named it ‘The girlfriend’.
Back to me and Dan. While James did his route Dan top roped the left arete onight and graded it around 6b. I top roped it and agreed it was about 6b. Dan lead and I lead it after him. He did not decide on a name at the time but I will let you know what its called when I know. I then worked a route on the main face of a bridge I dogged my way up on top rope and reckoned it to be 6c/+ and decided not to lead it. Dan also tried it on top rope agreed on the grade he also passed on the lead.
My opportunities came and I then lead onisight the right arête on the side of the bridge. This was the last unclimbed route on the ends of the bridge. The route was poor, chossy and loose. I was not sure of the grade I thought it could be as easy as 5+ or as hard a 6a+. So I asked dan to give it a go he onsighted the route and said he thought it was a 6a/+. The route was harder than Dan’s first route but eaiser than his second so we graded it 6a+. I called it Haydn’s arête naming after a friend of mine who posts on UKC as Hardonicus. He has a habit of cleverly trolling UKC, he hates bolts and rarely climbs routes with less than two stars. So I felt it was fitting to name a shit route on bolted loose choss after him.
I later that night got a message off of Dan saying the guy who bolted the line wanted more controversial route names. I slept on it and the next morning decided to call it revolution action after the great song by Atari Teenage Riot. Check the video below.

Waking up the next morning I felt great. I had got some messages off the fiend Nick Allen. His Mrs the doctor is working. So we headed out to Horseshoe so I could tick my 7a. I took the lanky hippy with me as he wanted to try some routes. I warmed up by clip-sticking up my 7a and trying a few moves. I rested and gave the route a go but did not make it through the crux. I rested and belayed Chris as he tried a route. Nick turned up just as Chris lowered off so he had a go on Chris’s line he made it to the top dogging his way up.
I then had another go at my route just as I was through the crux I heard a pop in my left hand ring finger. Fearing the worst I instant dropped and got lowered to the ground. My finger went numb and ached at the same time. I believe I have damaged the tendon in my finger and I have an A2 pulley.
I talked Nick through the moves and he dogged his way up and stripped the line. Chris then stripped his line and we called it a day as Nick had some jobs to do.

Since Sunday I have been icing my finger and completely resting it.

I am now trying to decide what to do I don’t want to lose the fitness I have built up over the last few weeks but I also don’t want to antagonise my finger so it’s a hard toss up.
I have been reading up on the recovery and Dave Macleod advises that you can climb on a pulley and it will actually make it stronger as long as you don’t do any thing finger intense you also have to make sure you tape up your finger. So I guess climbing laps on the Rokt lead wall is the best way to go.

I am gutted as my training schedule has been shot down as I was seeing some big gains recently.

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