Sunday, 25 September 2011


So not been blogging due to works new internet policy blocking out blogs. So no blogging.
What's happened?
well I have now had a few days climbing outside and I have returned to the wall.
So what did I achieve?
I went to rubicon and repeated all my usual problems. I tried some new ones and got a good spanking
I had my first trip to the Tor .. I was epically spanked. It felt good ...
First visit I got on the lead wall and flashed a 6a (felt 5/+ish) I lapped it up down up. What felt better was the fact it was on the main overhang rather than the lead wall. I then got up a 6b (felt 6b+ ish) I had two rests working out the moves.
So my stamina is still there.
I tried the slab room and my balance was pretty good. I feel I am slghtly lacking in strength and a bit of power.
What's Next?
Well I am in training mode so I guess a load of time spent at the wall getting stronger and tring to read moves. Laps on the lead wall. Some lead falls.
Also I need to get some more outside bouldering to help me read moves better. Also I need to get on some trad in. My trad this year has not really improved. After a solid start to the year leading HVS constantly and feeling comfortable up to 5b ish.
Targets for the rest of the year?
E1!!!! more than one. Onsight
Lead 6c-7a
Font 6B/+
Three Pocket (f'n) Slab Fb 6A
Maybe even an E2?
What should I change?
Well I have recently been dieting and cutting down on my beer intake. Which was barely possible. I have also been eating more fruit and veg.
One example is I was in Frankfurt away on business everyone had a steak. I chose the duck breast in a mango sauce with mixed veg and I ate all the veg ... shit!! What is wrong with me? I chose duck as it had veg with it over a big massive steak ... mmmm meat!
How can the people reading this help?
Not convince me to eat curry!!

Sunday, 4 September 2011

On it!

Chorro is 9 weeks away I am getting pretty excited shame I don't have a guide to plan a tick list however I have been given some suggestions. These have been noted and will be tested!

The last couple of weeks I have been a bit busy with house stuff and at work so I have need been keen for mid week climbing. Last weekend I did not get out as I could not get a partner. Not even on bank holiday monday :( This week I was trying to find partners and struggled. however I managed to get two separate partners one keen for the peak at 9am and one keen for an afternoon session near hudds. So I thought I will have two sessions and make up for lost time.

So my day started at rubicon where I worked some hard problems up to Font 7A. I did not manage anything knew sadly however I got a retroflash on a 6A+. I really enjoy Rubicon it's hard, steep and polished. Good for training.

I got home at about 1 just as Jonny got to my house. I got a some dinner then headed out to Buckstones a venue I think I should spend some more time at. It has some excellent problems. I got a few new problems ticked but got defeated by one I thought was 6A turns out it was 6B so did not feel too bad. Great problem.

I am now exhausted looking forward to my next challenge whatever it may be ....