Sunday, 25 September 2011


So not been blogging due to works new internet policy blocking out blogs. So no blogging.
What's happened?
well I have now had a few days climbing outside and I have returned to the wall.
So what did I achieve?
I went to rubicon and repeated all my usual problems. I tried some new ones and got a good spanking
I had my first trip to the Tor .. I was epically spanked. It felt good ...
First visit I got on the lead wall and flashed a 6a (felt 5/+ish) I lapped it up down up. What felt better was the fact it was on the main overhang rather than the lead wall. I then got up a 6b (felt 6b+ ish) I had two rests working out the moves.
So my stamina is still there.
I tried the slab room and my balance was pretty good. I feel I am slghtly lacking in strength and a bit of power.
What's Next?
Well I am in training mode so I guess a load of time spent at the wall getting stronger and tring to read moves. Laps on the lead wall. Some lead falls.
Also I need to get some more outside bouldering to help me read moves better. Also I need to get on some trad in. My trad this year has not really improved. After a solid start to the year leading HVS constantly and feeling comfortable up to 5b ish.
Targets for the rest of the year?
E1!!!! more than one. Onsight
Lead 6c-7a
Font 6B/+
Three Pocket (f'n) Slab Fb 6A
Maybe even an E2?
What should I change?
Well I have recently been dieting and cutting down on my beer intake. Which was barely possible. I have also been eating more fruit and veg.
One example is I was in Frankfurt away on business everyone had a steak. I chose the duck breast in a mango sauce with mixed veg and I ate all the veg ... shit!! What is wrong with me? I chose duck as it had veg with it over a big massive steak ... mmmm meat!
How can the people reading this help?
Not convince me to eat curry!!

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