Sunday, 30 October 2011

sore fingers and new ticks

good day at stanage plantation yesterday. I went with the uni lot but not feeling the trad love I headed bouldering on my own (also slightly to wind up H).
I started by repeating several problems on the lone boulder then I flashed an easy arete problem to warm up. I then tried the 6B sit start variation. I got no where on it. I could pull off the ground but that was it. I could not work the two moves to get my on to the arete and the easy finish.
Next I moved over to bullworker (6B) but could not get the crux move. The rain came and passed so as it dried up a nice breeze hit and sped up the process. I walked over to another 6B business launch. This was rather steep so it had stayed dry. I spent some time doing this but could not find the correct foot hold to get me in a position to be able to slap the good hold.
Next I headed to the pebble where Ian (Nai from UKB) was and revisited some old problems a 6B slab which I should be able to do but have not properly worked it. I have the beta so I will give is a good go next time (air time). Pebble arete (6A) was done pretty quickly with the correct beta i.e. move round left instead of staying on the right face.
I decided to have a good go at deliverarete sit start (6A+) I had flashed the 5+ stand start before but not done tried the sitter. I had a couple of goes but could not slap the slopey pinch crimp thing which is the start hold of the stand start.
I rested by trying the start of the green traverse (7A) Still struggle with the first move. Anyway I got some better beta from ian for delierarete and put my left foot lower just pressed against the wall and second try I hit the hold more shocked to hit it I peeled off (there goes some skin). I had a minute rest and went for it.

Left hand on the good undercut and right on the crimp round the corner. Left foot pressed on the wall right pressing on the the flake under the good foot hold. Pull hard with the left and slap for the slopey pinch-crimp thing. This time I pulled really hard on the right so it would not pop. I placed my left on foot on the good notch and rocked into it and sat on the foot. A bit confused with what to do now but set on the left foot I let go with the left hand and bumped the right up to the better hold. Pysched I was through the crux of the 6A+ and just needing to do the rest of the 5+  I cracked on I got my left hand high on a flat slightly slopey hold I stepped my right foot to the notch above the left foot. Pulling hard on the holds I smeared high with my left I moved further left with both my hands. now last hard move. I got my right heel over the top of the arete and the moved my left hand further left and stepped my left foot to a higher smear. I pulled hard, rocked up and on top my right foot. It was done my first new 6A+ in a while. Awesome :)

Next I was tired so I thought I would give not to be taken away (6C) a go ... the crux is getting off of the ground and I gave it a good go and on my third one last attempt I made some progress. My skin was really going at this point so I decided to give it a miss. I went over to crescent arete (6A new guide). skin going and tired I gave it a good go and took two big falls before realising I was a bit tired to keep trying. I rested for a bit and went back to business launch to try and crack it. my fingers were practically gone. I tried a few different ways and it just did not happen too tired I made some progress though and it will happen. I flashed a 4+ to keep warm but the rain came in and I called it a day.

Big thanks to Ian for the beta and spotting. Sorry am such a punter I could not help you .. saying that two new 7A ticks and a couple of 6Cs done don't think you needed it.

The results of my day bouldering:
New ticks 1x6A+ 1x6A some easy problems
Some nice (bigish) falls
Two tips through two more almost through
One knackered punter.

Thursday, 27 October 2011

things have changed?

So have I been quietier recent?
I am not sure if I have or not. I have quite a few things on at the minute and things are getting lets say busy.
I can see a light at the end of the tunnel but we will see.

Anyway enough of that crap.
Two weekends ago I went to froggatt my favourite crag.
I took rowan for his first trip and I took dan lane as his plans fell through. We got to the crag at a reasonable time and I convinced Rowan to lead the first route. I stuck him on heather crack (I think) he did it with no real issues I then went after my nemesis from my last visit. Pedestal crack (HVS 5a). I got up to my last high point and completely blew it again. I lowered and had another go. At the crux I got in the crack moved out left cme back across. bridging working my way up. The last piece of gear at my feet. I see the jug and the end of the route I pull hard on my right hand and stretch for the jug. I am reaching an inch away from grabbing it. My right foot pops. I fall again bloody stupid route!!!! Took a nice 15 ft lead fall into air. Dan finished it off. Frustrated I bouldered the rest of the day and took some photo. Rowan then lead a Vdiff and dan followed him up it. Becci and Laura turned up and also lead the Vdiff we then bouldered about for a bit.
As the sun started to set we headed towards the boulders on top of the crag to relax, boulder, and enjoy the sunset. Sadly on the way Dan suggested that we do cave crawl. I reluctantly agreed and crawled through the horrible grovel. I did it with some swearing and some grunting. Then all five of us walked up to the boulders at the top of the crag and climbed the boulders in several ways and enjoyed the sunset.
In the pub we had a nice relaxing drink and chat.
The next day I went to Bamford with Haydn feeling tired, unpsyched and lazy we went to wrinkled wall as Nick said he had not done. Which was cool as both me and H had done it before. As Nick was racking a guy on the route to the right took a fall. Nick gave him some treatment and advised he went to the A&E. After they started to pack up Timmy fired out the route no issue. Next up was some HVS which H did with no issue low in the grade is an understatement.

Last weekend The uni club went to wales friday night involved drinking and some bad choices. Saturday I went to the slate quarries for the first time. The rock is amazing need to get back very soon!!! I was mainly sticking top ropes up route so I never really pushed myself. I onsighted two Fr5's an Fr5b and a Fr6a. Saturday involved more beer and more laughs. Sunday it was damp after a heavy night of rain. I went for a walk up tryfan for the first time. Nice to top it out. I did not jump between Adam and Eve as the wind was really bad and the rock was so wet and greasy.

Last night was a great session at rokt feel tired and feeble tonight. The pub was a good do last night just a few people drinking lots arguing and shouting at each other. A proper climbing club night in the pub :D

Monday, 10 October 2011

Flowstone Shuffle - the route

So for those of you that have been reading my blog for a while will know I had a little issue with the penmean head route. Well my blog did not go into the full details of my want to climb this route.
To be honest I was obsessed!
Flow stone shuffle is a 12m long pumpy as hell route. Nicely spaced bolts with excellent moves and is really sequency. The route gets 3 stars and was put up by Chris Doyle (check out his blog it's one of the best) when the crag was being developed.
I spent the best part of a year thinking about this route working out how I can climb it. Why I failed last time. I had fallen 4 times at the crux the year before. I had thought I had the right sequence but I cleary did not.
The route is straigh forward to the first bolt. I always started this route with out the first bolt clipped.
My sequence for this start had some novel foot placement working my way up a lay back piece of slopy flowstone to a side ways jug for my left hand and a big reach up right to another jug. The clip is a little pumpy as I have to do this off of a side pull jug holding on with my left hand and reaching through to click the bolt with my right hand.
I then return to the jug on the right with my right hand. I take a rest poor rest as the clip gets to my arm every time. Then comes the crux. I had messed up this sequence loads. I had eventually refined it.
I took a deep breath and really though about what to do I pulled hard on my hands and placed left foot high on a slopey foot hold in line with my crotch. this put me out of balance I put as much force in my foot as I could. in my head I was screaming at my self. Don't relax. Don't let that foot fucking move. I had fallen on this move at least 5/6 times I started to panic. I kept going from here I place my left foot high and far out right on a foot hold that was at chest height before I started the move. Now off balance I have to pull really hard with me left had on the side pull. Still in my head I am screaming don't slip at my left foot. I move up to a side pull crimp with my right hand.  I rocked oved on my right foot release the pressure off of my left foot and slap up left for the good side pull. Fucking yes!!! I am through the crux. I pull on the side pulls hard and balance to stand up.
I do a stepped up on some poorish pinches and clipped the second bolt. I down climbed and took the unconfortable, poor rest.
My mind is going YYFY and spinning but I am having to tell myself stay focussed it gets pumpy and still sequency from here.
I move off right to the high jug with some techy foot work I am trying to control my breathing and focus on the moves the pump is about to come.
I do the hard move back left. I grab an undercut jug and pull hard I move foot to a small edge then turn my knee out left to balance I cross through and pitch the flowstone pockets above the jug and do some balancy footwork to get my right foot above my left foot on another small edge. I move my left foot to a small foothold out.  I am pumped as hell struggling to keep the air flowing at this point. I slap my left hand to a side pull hidden pocket.
I really turn my right knee to a drop knee and quickly pull out a load of slack and clip the thrid bolt with my right. As soon as it's clipped I grab a crimp with my right hand and get get my right foot high. Really pumped I slap my left on a sloper for balance as an intermediate. Quickly I turn myleft hand round and grab a massive undercut (the one on the cover of the A55 guide). I move my left foot to a small edge and bring my right hand to match the undercut.
At this point I paniced I forgot my sequence. In my head I am screaming at myself I am pouring with sweat. I slap out left to the good side pull.
The moves ease now but I am fucked!! instead of bridging my right foot and reaching up with my right I hand I slap up with my left. It then clicked.
What the fuck am I doing I am sweaty my left hand is slipping I am pumped. I managed to slap. My left hand back down to the side pull and slap my right hand to the good flatty. I get my left hand up to the flatty above.
My arms are gone the anchor looks so far away. my fingers are sweaty I have no grip. I cant get a rest to chalk up. I get to a flat ledge I am not able to rest my arms are gone I have only one option. I rock up to the undercut and lay back on the small holds. I get my self set and clip one of the draws. I am there am done.
YYFY the pain is over.
I wont have to worry any more I don't have to think about the moves. I don't have to piece together the novelty bits of rock or the weird angles.
The celebration last for a couple of days the obsession is over.
A few days later I start to fell empty. I need a new project I need some thing to keep me focused I need something to keep me going. I need some thing got keep the pysche!!

Recently I got the slate guide. I now have my targets. But for many of my new project I need to improve by miles to be able to do it.
Train like a mofo is the key. I need to be better. I want the routes so bad. Fucking psyched

The Training Plan

The training period before my winter sports trip/s is in full swing.
My current weakness' are as follows:
Strength :- I am pretty weak
Power Endurance :- Power-Endurance means exactly what it sounds like: being able to sustain powerful moves (quote from: bodyresults)
Finger strength :- As it says on the tin
Core strength :- The large muscles above your stomach.
I am Fat :- I need to lose weight

My wieght issue is an on going struggle it has been since I was about 13 years old. I have been on a diet all this year I have not been great with it but I am trying to get better.
My core is not overly strong but my biggest weakness is that I don't know how to engage it properly. I am getting better.
For finger strength I am hanging off on my fingerboard regularly and occassionaly doing pull up off of it.
For PE I am spending my time running laps on the lead wall at Rokt.

Friday night I had a good session on the lead wall. I started by flashing a pumpy 6a+ on the main overhang then I down climbed it straight away. Felt top end 6a+ on the way up about 6b/+.
The 6a+ is quite pumpy and no proper rest. It involves big moves and slopers so hard to down climb espcially with no proper rests. It was awesome to make it down to the ground with no falls or weighting the rope.
Next I worked a 7a up the overhang on top rope. It felt good I managed all the moves but I need to build a lot more PE to pull it together.
I then ended up doing 6 laps of the easy route with no rests and hanging around tightening a hold.
Each pitch of the lead wall is 21.5m so I managed to climb over 193m on the lead wall. Its all good for the training.

Saturday I rested and just did a load of pull ups every time I walked past my bar

Sunday I really wanted to get a session in but I was struggling for a partners so I waited untill it was too late but I just ended up having a finger board session. Which is not bad as its working a weakness. I was doing finger pull ups assisted with the jugs for one hand.

My current plan is to do some core exercises monday's fingerboard tuesday wall wednesday rest thursday wall/rock friday Saturday rest/trad/outdoor climbing Sunday Wall/Rock. I am also doing pull up and some core in amungst the main plan.

So again not much interesting has happened in this blog just talking about my weaknesses.

I promise in my next blog I add a few more of my opinons. I might even do another description of a route.

Thursday, 6 October 2011

last two weeks

So my blogging is taking a back seat due to problems with work blocking but blogger.
So what have I done I have upped my climbing indoors with the winter session being on the horizon.
I managed to head out to the works which is my favourite indoor wall. It takes me about an hour to get there so its a bit of a trek but it is worth. Especially if you have good company.
Also the new students are here. Last wednesday we took about 40 students to Rokt it was a little packed but I had a good session nice to see so many people getting interested in climbing it will good to see how many people hang around.
Last weekend I took some of the freshers outdoor climbing for the first time. Okay so we ended up with a good group. Instead of the usual total begineers we ended up with a group of one new climber one done some top roping before and one with some leading experience. This made it an easy day.
We headed up to Dovestones edge. Its a good venue with a decent walk in 20mins gentle walk to a 20min brutal up hill walk with out a path.
When we got there we split to two groups me and nick (lead before) also Alex took out Rowan (Top roped before) and brendon (only indoors bedfore).
I let nick take the lead and he lead a VDiff. Alex lead question mark. Both flew up there routes and everyone followed okay too.
I then set Nick on something harder and he lead a HS without any issue. Everyone followed him up (except Alex who had lead it before). Alex then lead a VS 4c that is a nice bold route Nick and Brendon followed him up. Rowan then lead a VDiff as his first outside lead.
Next was alex who lead a HS arete and I lead my first and only route of the day. I got on a VS 5a finger crack. I am not the best crack climber but I loved finger locking it felt awesome sadly I pumped out at the crux I rested on a nut and then got it with out falling off. Gutted!! It was a really good route and I blew it :( Anyway nick followed me up. I explained to him the theory of how to finger lock before he set off and did the route no problem. Nick lead a S and Alex lead a Severe. The light was going at this point so I belayed Alex on a HVS and let nick following him. The light was going and I was eager to get on a pub crawl so we packed up and headed to the car.

The pub crawl was pretty expensive and epic! Started at SU, then Rat and ratchet, the grove, Vox, warehouse, parish possibly somewhere else. Great night got in at 3 ish. The less mentioned about drunken texting girls at 3am the better. Also realising you are sat on a table with people you don't know think they are someone else should be blamed fully on Mr Jager Bomb ...

Sunday I felt shit. So hungover and grim. Anyway we all met at uni at 10.30. A good group of people feeling grim and hung over were heading out stanage high neb. THe group was me Vix Alex oli (of helicoptor hereos fame see 9mins 30) Rowan from saturday, Adam from the pub crawl and Ben.
We rocked up at the crag around 11.30 and I was racking up at 11.45 ish when I realise I did not have my shoes. It then dawned on me if they were not in my rucksack they must of still been up at dovestones edge. FUCK!!!!
Angry at myself, I headed to outside in Hathersage with Rowan who wanted a new rucksack. In outside I tried on 3 different pairs of 5ten velcros and was set on a pair of 9's ... until I tried on a pair of 9.5 quantum's. WOW!! fantastic shoes so a £100 later I had a new pair of purple shoes :D
Anyway we rocked back up to stanage to see adam following alex up a route. I throw myself at a nice bold slab route. The new shoes hurt a bit tight but they will stretch. Rowan followed me up. He then wanted to get on lead but the route he wanted was taken to I lead another route a nice severe called cave buttress. Rowan followed me up it with no issue but a wimper in the strong wind coming round the corner. Then Rowan was keen to get on his route but again it was taken so he had a look in the guide to find another route and the rain came. So sadly we called it a day and a little bit of a failure.

I was keen to get on something harder but the routes will still be there for years to come.

When I got home after a beer in the grove I checked UKC and found some one had found my shoes at dovestones edge and brought them home. :) Arrangement were made and my Dad picked them up from go outdoors in Manchester.

Yesterday was another day at Rokt with the new students. Not as many turned up but it was probably better as it meant we could spend more time with each of them. It was nice to talk through movement and body postion in more detail. I got on the lead wall and did some top roping I am lacking power endurance but I need to get on it before I go to chorro I can build some fitness out there but I still have time to gain some before I head out so I should.

So this was a long blog not saying much. Not a lot of my personal opinion or epic descriptions about hard moves/routes. Anyway will try and blog a bit more.