So for those of you that have been reading my blog for a while will know I had a little issue with the penmean head route. Well my blog did not go into the full details of my want to climb this route.
To be honest I was obsessed!
Flow stone shuffle is a 12m long pumpy as hell route. Nicely spaced bolts with excellent moves and is really sequency. The route gets 3 stars and was put up by Chris Doyle (check out his blog it's one of the best) when the crag was being developed.
I spent the best part of a year thinking about this route working out how I can climb it. Why I failed last time. I had fallen 4 times at the crux the year before. I had thought I had the right sequence but I cleary did not.
The route is straigh forward to the first bolt. I always started this route with out the first bolt clipped.
My sequence for this start had some novel foot placement working my way up a lay back piece of slopy flowstone to a side ways jug for my left hand and a big reach up right to another jug. The clip is a little pumpy as I have to do this off of a side pull jug holding on with my left hand and reaching through to click the bolt with my right hand.
I then return to the jug on the right with my right hand. I take a rest poor rest as the clip gets to my arm every time. Then comes the crux. I had messed up this sequence loads. I had eventually refined it.
I took a deep breath and really though about what to do I pulled hard on my hands and placed left foot high on a slopey foot hold in line with my crotch. this put me out of balance I put as much force in my foot as I could. in my head I was screaming at my self. Don't relax. Don't let that foot fucking move. I had fallen on this move at least 5/6 times I started to panic. I kept going from here I place my left foot high and far out right on a foot hold that was at chest height before I started the move. Now off balance I have to pull really hard with me left had on the side pull. Still in my head I am screaming don't slip at my left foot. I move up to a side pull crimp with my right hand. I rocked oved on my right foot release the pressure off of my left foot and slap up left for the good side pull. Fucking yes!!! I am through the crux. I pull on the side pulls hard and balance to stand up.
I do a stepped up on some poorish pinches and clipped the second bolt. I down climbed and took the unconfortable, poor rest.
My mind is going YYFY and spinning but I am having to tell myself stay focussed it gets pumpy and still sequency from here.
I move off right to the high jug with some techy foot work I am trying to control my breathing and focus on the moves the pump is about to come.
I do the hard move back left. I grab an undercut jug and pull hard I move foot to a small edge then turn my knee out left to balance I cross through and pitch the flowstone pockets above the jug and do some balancy footwork to get my right foot above my left foot on another small edge. I move my left foot to a small foothold out. I am pumped as hell struggling to keep the air flowing at this point. I slap my left hand to a side pull hidden pocket.
I really turn my right knee to a drop knee and quickly pull out a load of slack and clip the thrid bolt with my right. As soon as it's clipped I grab a crimp with my right hand and get get my right foot high. Really pumped I slap my left on a sloper for balance as an intermediate. Quickly I turn myleft hand round and grab a massive undercut (the one on the cover of the A55 guide). I move my left foot to a small edge and bring my right hand to match the undercut.
At this point I paniced I forgot my sequence. In my head I am screaming at myself I am pouring with sweat. I slap out left to the good side pull.
The moves ease now but I am fucked!! instead of bridging my right foot and reaching up with my right I hand I slap up with my left. It then clicked.
What the fuck am I doing I am sweaty my left hand is slipping I am pumped. I managed to slap. My left hand back down to the side pull and slap my right hand to the good flatty. I get my left hand up to the flatty above.
My arms are gone the anchor looks so far away. my fingers are sweaty I have no grip. I cant get a rest to chalk up. I get to a flat ledge I am not able to rest my arms are gone I have only one option. I rock up to the undercut and lay back on the small holds. I get my self set and clip one of the draws. I am there am done.
YYFY the pain is over.
I wont have to worry any more I don't have to think about the moves. I don't have to piece together the novelty bits of rock or the weird angles.
The celebration last for a couple of days the obsession is over.
A few days later I start to fell empty. I need a new project I need some thing to keep me focused I need something to keep me going. I need some thing got keep the pysche!!
Recently I got the slate guide. I now have my targets. But for many of my new project I need to improve by miles to be able to do it.
Train like a mofo is the key. I need to be better. I want the routes so bad. Fucking psyched