Thursday, 6 October 2011

last two weeks

So my blogging is taking a back seat due to problems with work blocking but blogger.
So what have I done I have upped my climbing indoors with the winter session being on the horizon.
I managed to head out to the works which is my favourite indoor wall. It takes me about an hour to get there so its a bit of a trek but it is worth. Especially if you have good company.
Also the new students are here. Last wednesday we took about 40 students to Rokt it was a little packed but I had a good session nice to see so many people getting interested in climbing it will good to see how many people hang around.
Last weekend I took some of the freshers outdoor climbing for the first time. Okay so we ended up with a good group. Instead of the usual total begineers we ended up with a group of one new climber one done some top roping before and one with some leading experience. This made it an easy day.
We headed up to Dovestones edge. Its a good venue with a decent walk in 20mins gentle walk to a 20min brutal up hill walk with out a path.
When we got there we split to two groups me and nick (lead before) also Alex took out Rowan (Top roped before) and brendon (only indoors bedfore).
I let nick take the lead and he lead a VDiff. Alex lead question mark. Both flew up there routes and everyone followed okay too.
I then set Nick on something harder and he lead a HS without any issue. Everyone followed him up (except Alex who had lead it before). Alex then lead a VS 4c that is a nice bold route Nick and Brendon followed him up. Rowan then lead a VDiff as his first outside lead.
Next was alex who lead a HS arete and I lead my first and only route of the day. I got on a VS 5a finger crack. I am not the best crack climber but I loved finger locking it felt awesome sadly I pumped out at the crux I rested on a nut and then got it with out falling off. Gutted!! It was a really good route and I blew it :( Anyway nick followed me up. I explained to him the theory of how to finger lock before he set off and did the route no problem. Nick lead a S and Alex lead a Severe. The light was going at this point so I belayed Alex on a HVS and let nick following him. The light was going and I was eager to get on a pub crawl so we packed up and headed to the car.

The pub crawl was pretty expensive and epic! Started at SU, then Rat and ratchet, the grove, Vox, warehouse, parish possibly somewhere else. Great night got in at 3 ish. The less mentioned about drunken texting girls at 3am the better. Also realising you are sat on a table with people you don't know think they are someone else should be blamed fully on Mr Jager Bomb ...

Sunday I felt shit. So hungover and grim. Anyway we all met at uni at 10.30. A good group of people feeling grim and hung over were heading out stanage high neb. THe group was me Vix Alex oli (of helicoptor hereos fame see 9mins 30) Rowan from saturday, Adam from the pub crawl and Ben.
We rocked up at the crag around 11.30 and I was racking up at 11.45 ish when I realise I did not have my shoes. It then dawned on me if they were not in my rucksack they must of still been up at dovestones edge. FUCK!!!!
Angry at myself, I headed to outside in Hathersage with Rowan who wanted a new rucksack. In outside I tried on 3 different pairs of 5ten velcros and was set on a pair of 9's ... until I tried on a pair of 9.5 quantum's. WOW!! fantastic shoes so a £100 later I had a new pair of purple shoes :D
Anyway we rocked back up to stanage to see adam following alex up a route. I throw myself at a nice bold slab route. The new shoes hurt a bit tight but they will stretch. Rowan followed me up. He then wanted to get on lead but the route he wanted was taken to I lead another route a nice severe called cave buttress. Rowan followed me up it with no issue but a wimper in the strong wind coming round the corner. Then Rowan was keen to get on his route but again it was taken so he had a look in the guide to find another route and the rain came. So sadly we called it a day and a little bit of a failure.

I was keen to get on something harder but the routes will still be there for years to come.

When I got home after a beer in the grove I checked UKC and found some one had found my shoes at dovestones edge and brought them home. :) Arrangement were made and my Dad picked them up from go outdoors in Manchester.

Yesterday was another day at Rokt with the new students. Not as many turned up but it was probably better as it meant we could spend more time with each of them. It was nice to talk through movement and body postion in more detail. I got on the lead wall and did some top roping I am lacking power endurance but I need to get on it before I go to chorro I can build some fitness out there but I still have time to gain some before I head out so I should.

So this was a long blog not saying much. Not a lot of my personal opinion or epic descriptions about hard moves/routes. Anyway will try and blog a bit more.

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