Sunday, 30 October 2011

sore fingers and new ticks

good day at stanage plantation yesterday. I went with the uni lot but not feeling the trad love I headed bouldering on my own (also slightly to wind up H).
I started by repeating several problems on the lone boulder then I flashed an easy arete problem to warm up. I then tried the 6B sit start variation. I got no where on it. I could pull off the ground but that was it. I could not work the two moves to get my on to the arete and the easy finish.
Next I moved over to bullworker (6B) but could not get the crux move. The rain came and passed so as it dried up a nice breeze hit and sped up the process. I walked over to another 6B business launch. This was rather steep so it had stayed dry. I spent some time doing this but could not find the correct foot hold to get me in a position to be able to slap the good hold.
Next I headed to the pebble where Ian (Nai from UKB) was and revisited some old problems a 6B slab which I should be able to do but have not properly worked it. I have the beta so I will give is a good go next time (air time). Pebble arete (6A) was done pretty quickly with the correct beta i.e. move round left instead of staying on the right face.
I decided to have a good go at deliverarete sit start (6A+) I had flashed the 5+ stand start before but not done tried the sitter. I had a couple of goes but could not slap the slopey pinch crimp thing which is the start hold of the stand start.
I rested by trying the start of the green traverse (7A) Still struggle with the first move. Anyway I got some better beta from ian for delierarete and put my left foot lower just pressed against the wall and second try I hit the hold more shocked to hit it I peeled off (there goes some skin). I had a minute rest and went for it.

Left hand on the good undercut and right on the crimp round the corner. Left foot pressed on the wall right pressing on the the flake under the good foot hold. Pull hard with the left and slap for the slopey pinch-crimp thing. This time I pulled really hard on the right so it would not pop. I placed my left on foot on the good notch and rocked into it and sat on the foot. A bit confused with what to do now but set on the left foot I let go with the left hand and bumped the right up to the better hold. Pysched I was through the crux of the 6A+ and just needing to do the rest of the 5+  I cracked on I got my left hand high on a flat slightly slopey hold I stepped my right foot to the notch above the left foot. Pulling hard on the holds I smeared high with my left I moved further left with both my hands. now last hard move. I got my right heel over the top of the arete and the moved my left hand further left and stepped my left foot to a higher smear. I pulled hard, rocked up and on top my right foot. It was done my first new 6A+ in a while. Awesome :)

Next I was tired so I thought I would give not to be taken away (6C) a go ... the crux is getting off of the ground and I gave it a good go and on my third one last attempt I made some progress. My skin was really going at this point so I decided to give it a miss. I went over to crescent arete (6A new guide). skin going and tired I gave it a good go and took two big falls before realising I was a bit tired to keep trying. I rested for a bit and went back to business launch to try and crack it. my fingers were practically gone. I tried a few different ways and it just did not happen too tired I made some progress though and it will happen. I flashed a 4+ to keep warm but the rain came in and I called it a day.

Big thanks to Ian for the beta and spotting. Sorry am such a punter I could not help you .. saying that two new 7A ticks and a couple of 6Cs done don't think you needed it.

The results of my day bouldering:
New ticks 1x6A+ 1x6A some easy problems
Some nice (bigish) falls
Two tips through two more almost through
One knackered punter.

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