Monday, 10 October 2011

The Training Plan

The training period before my winter sports trip/s is in full swing.
My current weakness' are as follows:
Strength :- I am pretty weak
Power Endurance :- Power-Endurance means exactly what it sounds like: being able to sustain powerful moves (quote from: bodyresults)
Finger strength :- As it says on the tin
Core strength :- The large muscles above your stomach.
I am Fat :- I need to lose weight

My wieght issue is an on going struggle it has been since I was about 13 years old. I have been on a diet all this year I have not been great with it but I am trying to get better.
My core is not overly strong but my biggest weakness is that I don't know how to engage it properly. I am getting better.
For finger strength I am hanging off on my fingerboard regularly and occassionaly doing pull up off of it.
For PE I am spending my time running laps on the lead wall at Rokt.

Friday night I had a good session on the lead wall. I started by flashing a pumpy 6a+ on the main overhang then I down climbed it straight away. Felt top end 6a+ on the way up about 6b/+.
The 6a+ is quite pumpy and no proper rest. It involves big moves and slopers so hard to down climb espcially with no proper rests. It was awesome to make it down to the ground with no falls or weighting the rope.
Next I worked a 7a up the overhang on top rope. It felt good I managed all the moves but I need to build a lot more PE to pull it together.
I then ended up doing 6 laps of the easy route with no rests and hanging around tightening a hold.
Each pitch of the lead wall is 21.5m so I managed to climb over 193m on the lead wall. Its all good for the training.

Saturday I rested and just did a load of pull ups every time I walked past my bar

Sunday I really wanted to get a session in but I was struggling for a partners so I waited untill it was too late but I just ended up having a finger board session. Which is not bad as its working a weakness. I was doing finger pull ups assisted with the jugs for one hand.

My current plan is to do some core exercises monday's fingerboard tuesday wall wednesday rest thursday wall/rock friday Saturday rest/trad/outdoor climbing Sunday Wall/Rock. I am also doing pull up and some core in amungst the main plan.

So again not much interesting has happened in this blog just talking about my weaknesses.

I promise in my next blog I add a few more of my opinons. I might even do another description of a route.

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