Friday, 11 November 2011

It's here tomorrow

So it here I am about to head off to the amazing El chorro to stay at the olive branch (blatant plug).
Since my last blog well.
Last week involved:
Tuesday: climbing works 3 hours of getting the shit kicked out of me by the purple circuit I did 90% of it. Some flashed some worked. The purple circuit is 6A-6B+ (or V3-V5 for the heathens) which is good to be flashing many of the low to mid grade ones. I do love the works it’s a drive! But it is worth it.
Wednesday: Rokt. I took quite a few lobs off the lead wall above the bolt. I also worked some circuits on the new board. I also did some new problems in the slab room before it got too sweaty. I was tired so the session was not too intense. I did manage 3 hours.
Sunday: I went to Pule and re did flying buttress again for the 9/10 time (at least) to let Laura try a harder climb. I then set her on Amen a very good v diff with a committing move off of a ledge. Due to poor gear she backed off. I then sent her up a severe which after a think she flew up. The light went earlier than expected so we called it a day.

This week has involved:
A rest week. This has been an opportunity to grow skin, let muscle build and not risk injury. I had one session at the depot on Wednesday. They had just put up a new wooden circuit. This tends to be crimpy but skin friendly in comparison to resin holds. The circuit was graded V3-V5. I felt it was pretty accurate with most of the problems feeling V4 and were done in an attempt or two. Some of them shut me down and one took about 819 attempts to finally get it.
The problem started on a wide finger jug at the base of a big bulge. The two simple technical hand moves heading left before a large move to a big slopey hold. You match the hold. Left hand on pulling on the slopey bit and right had guppy on the right hand end. My sequence was then to cut loose and pull my left foot high to a smooth okay foot hold then a big move to a small hold for my left then a balancey move to get your right hand in the good small finger jug above. It’s then all over just sort your feet and step up for the top hold and match.
I was failing on the move off of the big sloper. Persistence paid off and resting worked too.
Overall I had a great session at the depot but it is still not my favourite venue and its hindered by the traffic. But it is worth the journey.

Now I am ready for Chorro. My finger tips are red, bruised and sore. But I am working them with moisturiser and sanding dead skin. I am fitter than I have ever been. I am stronger than I have ever been. I am ready. Let’s get this shit into gear. I have a tick list but I am keeping it quiet. After the trip I will post on here what it was and how I did. The list is pretty ambitious to say the least.

Also I will do some regular blogs while out there and add in photos. Bring on the pain, frustration and joy you get from climbing!!

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