Monday, 21 November 2011

The review and the tick list

So for any of you that have been following my blog you will know my goal for chorro were aspirational. I was wanting to push my grade and climb hard. well you will know the hardest thing I climbed out there was a 6b+. This was not my goal! yes the 6b+ was onsight which is the hardest sports climb I have done but it was not my goal I wanted more.
I wanted a 7 I at least wanted a 6c.
So the first day I got there and climbed on limestone for the first time in a while. My regular(ish) trips to rubicon and peak sport kept me with an idea of the rock. I got there and fired out some easy routes on the first day.
The second day I fired out a 6b onsight which felt good then I got on a 7a and had an awesome blast at it doing every move on top rope. The light went so I did not get another go that day. I never went back (bollox, fail!)
Next day I got on a 7a and it did not fell nice and it rained. Following day I got a 6c+ on toprope really fast. But it tore my fingers apart.
I did not get on anything hard after this due to a combination of being at a bad crag and weather.

I am now pissed off disappointed and needing to work my arse off harder between now and march.

My tick list was as follows:
Redpoints attempts
Oceano gris 7a Frontalas - Had a go at it did not fell right
Arabesque 7a Arabe - I should have done this. I got all the moves on top rope but did not go back. for a few reasons
La Ley Del Cateto 6c+ Las Encantadas - did not try looked good but ran out of skin/time
No Puedo Controlarme 6c+ Las Encantadas - did all the moves fast but absolutely trashed my fingers in the process.
Redders 7a Las Encantadas - looked awesome but was in too much pain when there and felt bad dragging people up there with nothing else to do
Madriles 7a Los Cotos - The base of the crag was overgrown and hard to find routes complete psyche killer.
Cafe Bonk 7a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Si Te Caes Pega Una Voz 6c Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Guettero Del Abismo 7a Los cotos - Los Cotos

Onsight attempts
Luna 6a+ Frontales - did not try
Stanage girls 6a+ frontales - did not try
Gabi 6a frontales - did not try
Amtrax 6a frontales - did not want to multipitch when out there
Welcome to el chorro 5+ frontales - did not go to this area
Checkout 6b+ frontales- did not go to this area
valentines day 6a Frontales - did not want to multipitch
Bladerunner 6a Arabe - Tick awesome
Face to flake 6b arabe - Tick onsight
Chilona 6a+ arabe - did not want to multipitch
Nombro Propia 6a Las Encantadas - Tick onsight
Bohem destrell 6a+ Las Encantadas - did not finish over polished, shit and badly bolted.
The Rib 6a+ Las Encantadas - tick
Atenea 4+ Las Encantadas  - tick
Program Genocida 6b Las Encantadas - more like 6b+ lots of lead falls then rained before I could finish
Berriche De Chinche 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Number one 4+ Los Cotos - Tick
Bruner and the Bruna 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
The policeman stole my wallet 6b Los cotos - Los Cotos
El Viajero Amable 6b+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Exodo 6a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Hay Un Guarillo Enla Tapia 6a+ Makinodromo - did not go
Salto Del Gato I 6b Makinodromo - Did not go
Salto Del Gato II 6b+ Makinodromo - Did not go

What I actually did:
7a
1xtop rope dog
1xground up DNF
6c+
1xtop rope dog
6c
did not try
6b+
1xLead onsight
6b
1xLead onsight
6a+
1x onisght
1xredpoint setting draws after previous failing lead it onsight the year before
6a
3x onsight
5+
2xonsight
5
3xonsight
4+
1xonsight
4
1xonsight

So its a long list but not much hard stuff. I am really disappointed in my trip.

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