Monday, 21 November 2011

The review and the tick list

So for any of you that have been following my blog you will know my goal for chorro were aspirational. I was wanting to push my grade and climb hard. well you will know the hardest thing I climbed out there was a 6b+. This was not my goal! yes the 6b+ was onsight which is the hardest sports climb I have done but it was not my goal I wanted more.
I wanted a 7 I at least wanted a 6c.
So the first day I got there and climbed on limestone for the first time in a while. My regular(ish) trips to rubicon and peak sport kept me with an idea of the rock. I got there and fired out some easy routes on the first day.
The second day I fired out a 6b onsight which felt good then I got on a 7a and had an awesome blast at it doing every move on top rope. The light went so I did not get another go that day. I never went back (bollox, fail!)
Next day I got on a 7a and it did not fell nice and it rained. Following day I got a 6c+ on toprope really fast. But it tore my fingers apart.
I did not get on anything hard after this due to a combination of being at a bad crag and weather.

I am now pissed off disappointed and needing to work my arse off harder between now and march.

My tick list was as follows:
Redpoints attempts
Oceano gris 7a Frontalas - Had a go at it did not fell right
Arabesque 7a Arabe - I should have done this. I got all the moves on top rope but did not go back. for a few reasons
La Ley Del Cateto 6c+ Las Encantadas - did not try looked good but ran out of skin/time
No Puedo Controlarme 6c+ Las Encantadas - did all the moves fast but absolutely trashed my fingers in the process.
Redders 7a Las Encantadas - looked awesome but was in too much pain when there and felt bad dragging people up there with nothing else to do
Madriles 7a Los Cotos - The base of the crag was overgrown and hard to find routes complete psyche killer.
Cafe Bonk 7a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Si Te Caes Pega Una Voz 6c Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Guettero Del Abismo 7a Los cotos - Los Cotos

Onsight attempts
Luna 6a+ Frontales - did not try
Stanage girls 6a+ frontales - did not try
Gabi 6a frontales - did not try
Amtrax 6a frontales - did not want to multipitch when out there
Welcome to el chorro 5+ frontales - did not go to this area
Checkout 6b+ frontales- did not go to this area
valentines day 6a Frontales - did not want to multipitch
Bladerunner 6a Arabe - Tick awesome
Face to flake 6b arabe - Tick onsight
Chilona 6a+ arabe - did not want to multipitch
Nombro Propia 6a Las Encantadas - Tick onsight
Bohem destrell 6a+ Las Encantadas - did not finish over polished, shit and badly bolted.
The Rib 6a+ Las Encantadas - tick
Atenea 4+ Las Encantadas  - tick
Program Genocida 6b Las Encantadas - more like 6b+ lots of lead falls then rained before I could finish
Berriche De Chinche 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Number one 4+ Los Cotos - Tick
Bruner and the Bruna 6b Los Cotos - Los Cotos
The policeman stole my wallet 6b Los cotos - Los Cotos
El Viajero Amable 6b+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Exodo 6a+ Los Cotos - Los Cotos
Hay Un Guarillo Enla Tapia 6a+ Makinodromo - did not go
Salto Del Gato I 6b Makinodromo - Did not go
Salto Del Gato II 6b+ Makinodromo - Did not go

What I actually did:
1xtop rope dog
1xground up DNF
1xtop rope dog
did not try
1xLead onsight
1xLead onsight
1x onisght
1xredpoint setting draws after previous failing lead it onsight the year before
3x onsight

So its a long list but not much hard stuff. I am really disappointed in my trip.

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