Friday, 23 December 2011

Circuits circuits and more circuits

Since my last blog i managed to get out on the grit to almscliff and I have had two hard intense indoor sessions.

So starting with Almscliff I went there with some lads from UKB all much better climbers than me but don't mind letting a punter spot them while they work the harder stuff. Plus I get good beta on my problems. 
I got there about 11ish just before Tom. When he arrived we walked up to the warm up area and he ran through some easy stuff to get going. All easy stuff that went in a try or two at most. Next tom showed me pork chop slab (5) which I managed to flash. After this John and Ian arrived. 
The conditions at almscliff were amazing reasonably dry under foot, minimal cow poo, dry rock and perfect friction. So while they warmed up Tom set me on Morrill's wall an almscliff classic 6A my anti style. Tom ran up it to give me the numbers. Then I had a couple of goes. The holds look better than they are but not too bad. To then did it again to show me how. The next attempt I got to the last move and missed the jug by a centimeter or so. I got it next try. 
I was very happy to get it so quick. 10mins 6A classic and not my style at all. I tried a couple more 6A's in this area but every one wanted to move on so I followed them. 
We got on Syrret's next a 6C roof again not my sort of stuff I gave it a go but was not felling it and dropped of twice before the crux. Tom and Ian both did this pretty quick. 
Next up was demon wall roof area I left them playing on the 7's in the roof while I first worked the crucifix (5+) which went second try I think. I then tried pebble wall (6C) with Toms sequence. It is hard but definately doable. I did not get it. I moved on to crucifix arete (6A) which was quite interesting will go next time. The others wanted to move on to another area so again I followed.
They all had a go on an unnamed 6C+ which Tom got after just a few tries and Ian flashed.
At this point I was feeling pretty tired and I started to feel cold. So I just had a go working out flying arete (6A+) with not much look as I could not feel my fingers and feeling the session. 
I called it aday as the sun was going down and celebrated a successful trip to Almscliff with a curry.

Sunday came the conditions were great again but not feeeling tired I looked to go local but with no partner to inspire me I ended up playing GTA. 

Monday afternoon I got a message on Twitter asking if I fancied a session in west yorks. I thought why the hell not. I ended up going to Rokt which for me means lead wall/circuit board. The guy I met up with (Rob) is a bit on a machine. He was also psyched for the circuit board so I had a long session on it with him.  There are several circuit on there that I was working.
The starter circuit is 6a/+ (apparently) I have that wired not done it there and back yet but keep giving it a go. Its 26 moves long and good holds with a harder section in the middle. Good loosener for the others.
The next step up is the brown circuit (6b according to the chart) I had dropped this on the last move and the move before last before.
I had also been doing sections of the yellow a crimpy circuit that is fun as I did not know the grade but I could do bits. I looked the grade on monday and its 7c .. awesome!

So monday I warmed up then did the silver and got to move 15 end of the crux section on the way back. Next I reminded my self of the hardest bits of the brown had a rest then gave it a good burn and got to move 34/36 but then flash pump was too much. I reworked the end to get the moves to get them wired. I had a rest and got it. 
Up next was getting further on the yellow circuit. I am currently failing on 1-4. On my previous attempts I could link from 3 to 7. I spent some time getting this wired so it felt easy and gave me an opportunity to work out move 8. I got this then struggled to get nine bit more work and I got it. I even managed to touch hold 10. I was pretty happy with this. I then worked further on and managed to get the moves up to the rest and then on to move 27. 27-28 was a bit of an issue. 
Rob was working the yellow circuit also which was good to watch his way of doing the moves. The only issue is he is doing yellow with only white screw ons for feet and not taking the hands off rest. He reckons it deserves 8a that way. He dropped it on move 34 of 35 6/7 times on the night (last hard move).

After I had worked the yellow i thought I would try the next circuit up from the brown which is the red (6c - 26 moves). First attempt I got to move 9 I got this far 3 times but I was really struggling and felling tired. I rested up and did a couple of burns on the silver circuit and brown circuit to finish me off. Feeling the session and thinking one last burn I got told the time it was 10pm and kick out time. I had been on the circuit board for best part of 4.5 hours.
Went home content and tired

Wednesday came and not feeling overly strong with minimal partner option I headed to Rokt again and got back on the circuit board. After warming up I did the silver then the brown to warm up. 
This time I got on the red next. I managed to get to move 16 this time. pretty happy with my progress I worked the end and got all the moves. I rested and gave it a burn I got to move 18 with 19 being a hand off rest. I got back on straight away and linked to the end. So it will go with just a little more work getting the feet and sequence wired. 
I decided to get on the yellow again I gave it a burn from 3 and 4 again and this time I managed to get to 10 first attempt. I rested then I gave it a burn again getting to move 12 this time. Nice to add in two more moves and if I can link 12-13 I will be able to link from 3-17 which will be nice progress. I also worked the end and manage to get move 28 this time and only reason I did not get 29 was I was felling tired from the session.
I again finished myself off with a burn on silver and brown. 
Again feeling tired and worked I went home content. 

The next day I realised why I did not feel great the morning of the prior day as I have picked up a cold. Which is worse today. Just in time for christmas.

So december has been about progression in my ability and I feel it is getting there. 

here is a vid from Almscliff:

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