Sunday, 1 January 2012

2011 Done - here is my review and the plan

So I started January with buying a house and having a car crash also being pretty damned heavy I put my self on a strict low calorie diet to lose weight fast. It worked to a point but the calorie intake was far too low 1200 less than recommended. 
February was all about chorro I got there in okayish shape still coming back from injury. I wanted to get 6b+ this did not happen however I pushed my sports grade to 6b and I had a nice holiday. I met some cool people and got psyched to go back.
March was me getting back on the trad. I was confident of my abilities and I managed to flash an E2 I also onsighted a pump HVS which was not my style. It was a pretty good month plus it had a return of evening climbing which as always a good sign.
April saw my first solo of a multipitch it was christmas curry it felt good. I also got my house together.
May I decked out and lost a lot of psyche I have not got on a route harder than HVS since.
June I turned 25 and I spent time at indoor walls and I got a little stronger.
July I Spent a lot of time indoors trying to get stronger. I also had some coaching sessions with Nik Jennings. I had my first experience of Rubicon and limestone bouldering, my first trip to caley it rained and enjoyed the sun even though the grit lacked friction. It was generally a good month. I pushed my grade and felt stronger.
In August I put up my first new route a 6a/+ on the side of a pillar at new mills torr. The next day I went to horseshoe and managed to do a pulley injury and then I was injured for 6 weeks. I was pretty gutted as I was getting strong. 
In September my finger healed up and I got back on it I was not too weak but I enjoyed my time out on rock. I took it easy when plastic pulling as I wanted to heal up rather than hurt my finger further.
Generally from october till now I have not really done much trad. I have been a little psyched out about it. I think the E1 deck out effected me more than I realised. I have not pushed myself. I trust my gear but I am not going for it. I have been refocussing on bouldering and sports because I like the feeling of pulling hard and also not having to deal with the purity shit of onsight is all that matters.
I have been slowly getting stronger. I think this comes from climbing with different people and different attitudes towards climbing. I had another session with Nik recently to prepare me for my trip to spain in march. He has suggested what I need to do to improve and get ready. This has involved me spending hours on a 30° going from left to right up and down getting pumped out of my  mind. I am seeing gains from it I just need to keep going. One of my key issues is my weight. I have no idea what I weigh at the moment I have not got any weighing scales at my house. I feel pretty heavy with out the finger strength to make up for it.

its time to set goal for the year. My current goals I have myself set are below
UKB  
Sports:
Onsight a 6c
do more than 1 7a or harder

Bouldering:
6C or harder

Trad:
More multipitch this year
solid E1 onsight
Onsight E3

Do a grand day out in the slate quarries in best possible style
Pebble Wall
tick a 7a or harder in costa blanca march
Get in loads of millage in my Font trip
enter a bouldering comp
Visit the slate quarries more than once

UKC
STG End of March:
lead 3x E1
Boulder Font 6B
Climb 6c/+ in the best possible style
7a-7b costa blanca
MTG End of June
RP Mr blue sky horseshoe so I don't have to go back
Get solid at E1
Onsight E2/3
LTG End of 2012
Onsight 7a
No Major injuries

Of these goal some I think i can achieve some I don't most importantly I need to try and get them done.
I got told this the other day and it made me smile and think yup that is a great statement.
I would rather regret something I did do, rather than something I did not do
So that along with if you can't do something smart do something stupid is what I want to try and live to this year. 
My year so far is planned out as this:
January - wall and try and get back on trad.
February - Wall and try and get back on trad.
March - Costa Blanca
April/May - Font, Wales sports and multipitch
June - Peak limestone trad / Pembroke
July - Gogarth / Multipitch lakes/wales
August - Peak lime
September - Spain
October-December - Grit trad/ bouldering

Let the games begin :)


Finally thanks for everyones interest in my blog I am up to 1000 views someone must be interested :D

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