Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Deck out with me again

So far this year I have had a few of days out on the grit and a good indoor session.
The first was okay. I went to stanage plantation and got a couple of 5's sorted. I did not get crescent arete. I was struggling to trust my smears in new stiff shoes. Excuses! It was a really good day a little cold but nice to be on rock so early in the year.

Mid week I went to the depot where I entered my first ever climbing comp. Not expecting to get much I surprised my self I flashed the first nine problems. I also flashed several others. I came very close to a couple of others. I definatley feel that I am getting stronger so a bouldering comp seemed a good place to start. I have always been slightly anti comp. I consider climbing as a personal battle. So having to test yourself above others just seemed wrong.
I approached the comp as a personal challenge I worked my way through the problems just to see if I could flash them. This forced me to think about the problems more as I wanted to get them first try. I was happy with my efforts and think I will enter another comp.

Saturday came round eager to get out on rock but the weather was making it hard. After driving around for a while trying a few different crags we ended up at burbage north. I was warming up at the 20ft crack area. I was soloing route 2 a severe when near the top my foot slipped causing me to swing I fell off. I landed on a rock and hurt my hip and ankle. The day was written off for me sadly. I hobbled around and watched my friends climb. So still no banana fingers tick after trying it for 2 years ish if not longer.

Sunday I felt better so I went to holmfirth. It was greasy and drizzling I did some easy problems to warm up and sketched my way up them. I then tried to repeat some harder stuff. I did not do too much but I got back on rock so felt better to be out.

This week I have been doing some exercises at home. I got told to do push ups for font and its helping with my recent pains. I have been doing shoulder exercises to try and strengthen my rotator cuff. It has been aching recently. Nick also pointed out I still gaurd it when I am not thinking about what I am doing 18 months after cuff tear. I have also been doing a bit of finger boarding, pull ups and core strengthening exercises.

Need to get back on the circuits now that is my plan for friday unless I end up meeting a mate.

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