Sunday, 18 March 2012

Costa Blanca week in review




The week was very much a success from a grade chase point of view I got the 7a even if it was a soft one. I came very close to one in the upper end of the grade. I was done. I was one move from this.

The crags:
Forada - What a place north facing and high up so even in the heat it was still cool enough to pull hard with out being drained. The super heroes wall is majorly impressive and has a awesome view a crag everyone should visit!
Leyva - Again another unbelievable crag the view is awesome. The walk in is long in comparison to most convenience climbing in Spain but not too bad even compare to most of chew valley. The lift on the back of pick up made a great start to the first trip and made the approach easier. The routes are amazing and the position is perfect. I did not climb on the main wall but it is 200m of sheer faces from grade 5+ to 7b and the face looks fantastic climbing. Definitely a place I want to revisit.
The location
we stayed at was a bit different to most peoples costa blanca trips we stayed in the murcia area. This was a very much brits abroad place with a strong golf focus. However this made it easier to visit different venues such as Leyva.

The climbing
I was out of my comfort zone all week. I was getting on steep climbs not sticking to heavily technical footwork climbing. however the routes were so good I just wanted try the routes.

The Coaching
It was a constant psyche and confidence building approach. Little details noticed and advice given to improve movement and technique. It was trying to make you spot your mistakes and work on them. I would definitely go on another trip

The Coach
Nik is relaxed cool and focused. He seems to love climbing and love helping people to climb.
The Routes
Onsights:
Route 11 6a+ - Forada
Panchuflas 5+ - Forada
Cristina 5+ - Forada
No Name 5+ - Leyva
4+ Que Fobia 4+ - Leyva
Redpoint:
Son Goku 7a - Forada
Lead Dog:
Subiendo Como La Espuna 7a - Leyva
Camara Alta 6c+ - Forada
Top Rope:
Starman 7a - Forada - Dog
Carne De Psiquatrico 7a - Forada - Dog
Golondrinas 6a - Forada - Onsight

What went well:
I got my 7a even if it was soft I will take it and move on. I have learnt a lot more about my climbing and what I can achieve when I really try.

Disappointments:
Only completing one of my projects. Failing on my last climb of my holiday on the last move.

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