Yesterday was a long day but an awesome one.
Again all up at the crack of dawn keen and eager to get climbing. The plan was to head to leyva a crag in the murcia area of costa blanca. I had eyed up a line before the trip that I was keen for. Its a 7a slab to a steep juggy section and a hands off rest before joing the top of a 6b+ next to it.
Leyva has a bit of a walk in and a aweful map of how to get there in the guide book. Yuou have to pack up at a locked gate which only the locals can use. How every the guide book does suggest that you might be able to thumb a lift off a local to the bottom of the crag. Turns out this is true. We had walked for about 5 mins up the road when a guy was driving past in his pick up. So after some trying to converse with us having minimum spanish and him having no English piled into the back of his pick up. Was quite fun and really useful. From the road you can't quite see the crag but there was a cairn to point out the path. We followed this steeply up hill for probably about 400m and came to a awesome crag of hard single pitch climbing with some polished easy problems on the right.
I warmed up on some nothing 4+ easy just get the fingers going. The crag faces south so I was pretty warm to begin with. After this I got straigh on my project.
I got the bottom half in a quick go and had a rest so someone else could finish the route and set me a top rope.
On the next go I refined some of the moves on the crux and finished the route through the steep laybacking. and awkward top clip. Tired I had a long rest and thought the moves through.
Next go I got on lead. I dispatched the lower section to the crux no problem. Then I blew the crux. This became the story of the day. I would climb smoother and smoother up this one move and then fall. I would normally then get straight back on and do the move lower rest and repeat.
The crux is from two small slopey crimps rock up and balance on a small crozzle and the rock slightly to get a good flat hold in a slot. The hold is a slot so you can't just throw for it and need to grab it pretty static. I was getting tired and frustrated and closer and closer. The light had just about gone I was really tired wanting to save something for the walk back and the next day so I called it a day. Feeling gutted I just went a bit quiet and thought.
It was pretty late by the time we got back to the car so we decided to eat out again. We did not have much choice the supermarket was shut and we had no food in.
We ordered a feast. We started with tapas for 5, bread for 5 and paella for the other four, but due to my dislike of fish I a mixed meat skewer with veg. We were completely stuffed by the end of it. We got back to the villa at about 10.30 after leaving at 8-30 to 9 am ish.
Still got the psyche just really want to get one of these done.