Friday, 16 March 2012

Day 4 Rest day and Day 5 back on it

Day 4
The rest day was hard work. It was badly needed but I just wanted to climb. We spent the morning lounging around the villa then headed for the beach for a bit of bird watching and an ice cream. The beach was a little grim, brits abroad etc but there was some nice views to be had.
We headed back to the villa via a supermarket and picked up stuff for a barbeque. An epic barbeque was cooked and enjoyed by all on the terrace in the evening sun. Nice day but was desperate to get back on my projects.

Day 5
Yesterday we headed back to Forada for our final day there. I had two 7a projects I wanted to do. One was a soft touch rising traverse with a crux section about as steep as the circuit board at rokt. The other was a lot harder. A hanging slab with a dynamic move to reach it.
I decided to dispatch the soft one first and got on it as a warm up. I blew the lower section which I did not have any issue with on my first try at the route. I had a rest on the rope and worked the moves up to a big as rock over round a corner.
Second go had the bottom section sorted and got to the steeper crux which I got through but came off half way through the rock over. I was two moves from doing it.
Third go of the day (forth go total). I set of did the awkward but easy start. I got to the steeper section and blasted through it slightly blowing my sequence with one wrong foot hold but the one I found was good enough. On two side pulls I found played around with my feet finding my centre of gravity and did the awkward balancy clip the had a shake out as the pump was kicking in. RH to a sloper couple of little foot moves and cross through for the pinch. Drop my righ onto a shallow pocket and got my right foot on the huge foothold. Rock for miles and get the good pocket. Swap feet and pasted my foot on a noble and trust it and go. I was round on the slab pumped and exhausted. One last hard move and I was done. Rested for about 5 mins on the slab and then went for it. Smearing and balancing with poor hands and awkward feet and another big rock over to a side pull. Adjust my feet and grab the undercut jug done!!! YYFY 7a in the bag!!!

I had a good rest and went after my other project I did all the moves individually on top rope on first attempt with a couple of decent links. I had another go on top rope and blasted though the dyno and got to the mantel with nothing left. I got back on got the mantel and linked it to the top. However by this point I had tried the dyno 6/7 time and done the move 4 or 5 times. I had nothing left so decided to strip it and have a rest not wanting to hurt myself with a day left.

I tried to flash a 6c but failed badly for just went to the sunny for some easy milage.

The day ended with a trip a restaurant with some nice chicken and veg soup and a big ass plate of spag bol and a trip to another shocking bar.

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