Saturday, 17 March 2012

Day 6 - Last day Leyva

I woke up felling tired and low psyche due to exhaustion. The plan got finalised at the last minute and we confirmed we were heading to Leyva. So after an hours drive and a 40-50 minute up hill walk in we arrived at the las cuevas area. Feeling tired I decided to take it easy until the sun come off of my route.
My project was a 7a climb called subiendo como la espuma. The route is a technical slab, to steep technical wall climbing on small holds (crux), overhanging laybacks ending in a big reach to a good jug and rest. The route then joins a 6b+ with som nice tufa pulling to an awkward chain requiring a deep eygptian with air below your feel. Truely awesome! Rockfax 1 star (3 star classic imo).
A few days before I had tried the route. and repeatedly fallen off at the crux move on redpoint. My tactics had been bad. My skin was thin and the crux holds are sharp I had been working the route in the sun so I dead. Yesterday I had a lazy day and just fired off a 5+ to warm up then I did rested again belaying and taking photo's. The sun does not get onto it until about 3-4pm. So around 2 I got the bottom clips in until the good jugs rest. I did some of the moves to remind my self and just checked the crux move. I found I could reach the hold from a sat on my foot rather than rocking into it with is a much more stable position. Just checked the hold on the laybacks gave them a quick brush and came down to rest.
In the backing heat the holds were sharp and poor. So I left it for a hour or so and contiuned to belay. Simon and james then went off to try and do one of the big routes on the massive wall around the corner. What an impressive piece of rock around 200m of bolted routes from 5 to 7b.
My route finally got into the shade I gave it time to cool a little and went for a redpoint. Again I came off at the crux but I was much closer with the better foot position. Another good rest but same move. Another long rest and hit the got the crux hold but did a couple of moves and messed my sequence. Hauled back up and climbed to the next clip to remind my self of the sequence. Came down to rest. I realised I had two goes left in me abosolutely exhausted. Rested for about 30 mins and had a burn came off the move after the crux again. came down and rested it was about 5 to 6 and the light was going the temperature was perfect.  I had a long rest.
I felt tired but thought of something I heard a spanish bloke shout at the crag the day before to his partner who was pumped out of his mind strugg;ing on a hard move .. a la muerte. It means to the death. So I thought fuck it this is my last climb of the holiday. I was tired but I knew the sequence I was good enough I just needed to go for it!!!
The time came, every thing was right but me I was tired a week of climbing at my limit every single day has broken my body but that did not matter I wanted this route!
I started up the pleasant difficult padding up the slab. Got to the hands off rest. Trapped in my head I was exhausted I waited there for what felt like ages may have been minutes or seconds I have no idea. I just kept thinking to my self a la muerte. I started the crux sequence and every felt right. I did the crux got the next hold then the big slap to the good hold clipped. Took the poor rest got a little bit of recovery and went for it. comitting laybacks to a good pinch got the next clip exhausted and fighting two moves to a rest and easy terrain. big reach with my left to the poor side pull, high feet right to the better side pull got the wrong bit of the hold so crimped the fuck out of it. High foot on a lump feeling my grip failing I was gonna go for the jug last hard move. My right had greased off causing my foot to pop. Failling backwards it was over I had nothing left.
I hauled back up to the just below the layback and rested on the rope for ages and then went for it this time getting the good right hand properly doing the big reach to the jug. Breathing out my arse I rested on the good jug then climbed up to the next clip and an almost hands off rest. I then finished off the route clean. Got it in two big links, Absolutely gutted with nothing left. I stripped the route. I had given everything left on the last go but I was broken. I could not of given any more.
We waited for simon and james to come back from the crag and my body felt weak. I could barely move. Thankfully they were a while before they came back. The long walk back down the hill began. We got to the car pretty quickly all greatfull it was down hill to the car not up hill. I made sure I got the front seat. I wanted the extra space. I was done.
Drowsily we drove back to the villa and grabbed some clean clothes and had a nice meal. I barely talked I done. So close yet so far I am happy with my perforance espcially as Nik said he thought the route was 7a+ ...

What a week will give a break down and pictures in another blog. This one is long enough and I am still feeling tired.

Hope you enjoyed my updates.

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