Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Day3 (on) Walk away

Yesterday I got straight on my project Starman warming up on the easy start. It was a lot warmer than the last visit so I just wanted to get a sequence worked. I gave the route another go on top rope hoping to like the whole route. I failed badly. The start section I had wired went awfully my foot work was worse than sloppy my focus was just gone. I got to the knee bar and came back down.
Pissed off with my self I had five minutes and watched simon have a go at the 7c he was working. He came close last hard move.
I got back on top rope and got up to the knee bar with one mistake. I then tried the next section which is the crux for me. I had no idea how to do I spent what felt like 30 mins (probably 5 or 10) sat on the rope working the single move. I realised that I would not get this route this trip so decided to walk away and find something else.
After speaking with Nik he showed me two route both that more suited me. I diagonal Vague grove line that was only slightly steep and hanging slab with a steep curved roof.

I chose to give the hanging slab (called Carne de psiquatrico) a burn thinking it would be obvious if I could get it or not quickly.
Nik climbed it with surprising difficultly setting the draws where he found out the easy looking slab was the crux and the roof was not as bad as it looked and even had a big deadpoint in it.
I gave it a burn on top rope and the roof was a killer but I did just about manage the moves in isolation. Then the rock over came. From overhanging ground you get two good hold on the hanging lip and rock over to all glory with your foot on a small spike and balance into a steep slab to an awkward hands off rest and clip. It is an awesome move and very doable. Then the beautiful balancy slab comes smearing on little nubbings of limestone with a little bit of polish. I don't think many of the moves are easier than english 5a and sustained at around 5b. Using sharp positive side pulls move slowly focusing on keeping your rubber on the rock with a ridiculously smeary move from a really thin chipped hold to a jug out left (english 5c probs). I got all the moves first go up the roof needed to be refined but it felt much more doable than Starman.
The second go went much better and I refined the moves in the roof finding a better foot hold. It will definitely go but with my skin feeling pretty thin I decided to call it a day on the sharp slab and pockets. Simon then did the route first red point and stripped the draws.

We headed back to super heroes wall and Simon onsighted the over 7a that nick suggested setting the draws. He then convinced me to try the route on lead as a flash attempt. I got to the top third and dropped it due to panicking and over gripping. I then continued on more slowly working the moves and body positions and got through the steep bit. I then managed to link the last section fist time up. I think it will go next time but after a full day climbing at what felt my limit I decided to call it a day and lower off. I got linked 90% of the route on lead my first attempt off the ground on a 7a.

Psyched is an understatement!!!
Rest day today and back on it Thursday to get it done the get the hanging slab done and maybe have a look at something harder?

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