Thursday, 29 March 2012

Since I have come back

Since I got back from sapin I have been taking it easy I have been exhausted.
On the monday after getting back I went to millstone area bouldering with a mate Andy which saw a rather productive day. I got a lot of new ticks and my first 6B flash. I also fell off a lot and trashed my fingers on the grit.
I hadd the rest of the week off then I bouldered at burbage south on my own since Nick did not turn up, however I did randomly bump into Nik Jennings while I was falling off of Tiger a lot. I got a few new problems but it was so hot I could not get any friction at all.
Yesterday I headed to holmfirth cliff for a climb and barbeque. I did not climb anything new however I did get a load of the harder problems (for me) on film enjoy.
I have also been recently looking into different different climbing training tactics. Here are a few general musing that I am going to be looking into. This lead to an interesting debate on UKC
A lot of people seem to follow the self coached climbing techniques. However when researching many of the top climbers when they talk about climbing the say they just climb. The general approach for the top sports climbers seems to be they climb. If they are not fit enough they tend to do circuits and laps. I was advised for me the best training would be just climb as much and as often as I possibly can. This worked for me but I am a complete punter (as it says in the title). This go me thinking about how much research as gone into training specifically for climbing. Sports like football have over a hundered years of development and training exercises are still changing yearly. I originally got told to stretch before you start to avoid injury. Recently I have been told not to stretch at all as it puts extra force on muscles.
I wonder how climbing training techniques will change in the next ten years. For example I remember I recently read somewhere that the benefits from campussing were not that great in comparison to the risk it does to the finger tendons. I can't link as I can't remember where.
I also was thinking where most of the climbing training advice came from. I think this will be a combination of personal experiences and I would guess it came from competition climbers as that is where the money is. I guess the PE training techniques are based on having enough endurance for onsight climbing at your abosolute limit.
I am going to spend some more time looking at this over the next few weeks and see what my research shows. Well what else am I going to do at work?
Here are several links I came across:
Paxti training 
Paxti
ondra
ondra
Chris sharma – not sure how old this is
Sharma on jumbo love training
James Mchaffie 


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