Monday, 14 May 2012

The font review and now I am back

Font was an amazing week. I had a laugh being tricked and told what to do by Laura and Becci.
Bex on a blue circuit traverse at Isatis
Thurday I went to elephant which was awesome chilling in the heat and falling off the last move of a 6A and 6A+. I may have done a 6B but it did not feel 6B. Espcially not a font 6B.
Laura also on the traverse at Isatis
On the friday we went back to 95.2 I wanted to try a roof traverse again. I got very close to it. I could not work out the very last move so I left it and visitied Cul de Chein as Bex really wanted to see the dog. The amazing boulder which does not look like a dog unlike L'elephant that does actually look like a elephant (inside joke sorry).
I had planned to film me climbing loads of stuff in font but I was like a little child running round climbing on every shape and rock I could find and being too busy to film. Here is a short film of the footage I got. Next trip I will do a proper job.

I also got a bit of footage of laura doing a move she was trying for ages.

I do not believe that I climbed a 6 in font. However I climbed alot of problems in the 5+ range. I climbed about 100 problems through out the week which was really tiring.
I got back to awesome weather on the sunday but I was too tired so instead I had an early doors session at Burbage on bank holiday monday before the rain came. We started at Burbage West where we tested out West Side Story and the nose. I did not get very far on either. We then went to burbage bridge where we tried to climb a 6C. Finally we went to Burbage North where I climbed warmed up climbing around then I got on Lost in France 6A shockingly I flashed it. It just felt right. I also checked out the curse (5+) but fell badly and hurt myself. We moved on to banana fingers area once I healed up and rested.
I got on banana fingers 6A which I have been trying since 2010. I almost got it on the first attempt of the day. It went pretty quickly in the end. I then had another go at the direct and it worked it but wanted to save skin for remergence.
I got on all quiet on the eastern front but did not commit to it properly. The last area we went to was the remergence area. I tried remergence and got much further than I did on my last try. It would of gone but the weather came in and that was that :(

I had a couple of sessions at rokt during the week really uninspired at the moment for that place, however I took my 3 year old nephew and he is improving so fast its great to watch.
Saturday was an early session at Holmfirth a few things on the circuit, added a couple of eliminates in the 6A-6B range tried the fingery 6B+ no progress.

Sunday came and I headed to almscliff. I then warmed up in the brassic conditions. I tried to repeat morrills wall and felt and heard my left middle finger go. I spent the day plodding around spotting james and filming some bits. I tried a steep juggy 6B which would of gone if I could use my left had.

Anyway heres the vid from almscliff.
I am hoping the finger is okay but we will have to see. It is feeling better today so hopefully its not a pulley.

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