Sunday, 19 August 2012

7a the goal, The target

So the goal for Costa Blanca was 7a I got one and got stupidly close to a another. The thing that is in the back of my mind is it was a soft 7a. I want a proper one. My E1's, my E2 and E3 are all soft. I can accept that I have climbed E one as I have climbed harder. I want to be able to say I climbed a 7a a proper one not a soft one.
Since coming back from spain I have not ticked another 7 I have not properly put the work in though weather training and injury has got in the way. In the last few weeks I picked a project that works for me its my anti style. Its steep jug hauling while managing the pump on the route avoiding it getting terminal.
Working the route is great fun. Its amazing moves and so much fun to climb.

I had some burns on this last saturday and I blow my lead on 4 occassions at the same move. I was pretty gutted as I was sure I would get it. According to the yorkshire limestone guide it is near the top of the graded list. So it is a proper 7a. Thanks to Paul Bennett for taking the photos (check out his site).

Sunday I went to Shooters and seconded a load of routes up to HVS and tried to lead an E1 but it rained as I got to the crux. I escaped off up a HS. I am confident in my ability to lead E1 I just need to get on more trad.

I have managed to finish a few projects in the last few weeks too. I got a new problem at Holmfirth that I have tried off and on for a about a year never really working it. I also got a problem at almslciff I had tried over 4 visits.
It's always good physce to tick projects.

The injury has been holing me back and I have completely stopped crimping. It has been a good excuse to work my weakness. I have been getting on longer steeper climbing. Its been great and I am noticing better technique coming through.
So overall that was a random post but I am happy with my progress in general.

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