Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Another good weekend

Saturday I went to hobson moor and fired out a load of trad routes nothing new.
I also managed to tick a 6A called Percy 97.
 
Sunday I went to buckstones and fired out several new problems. Even getting a font 6B very quickly which I was happy about.
 
I through a video together of sunday and uploaded it. Let me know what you think.
 
 

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Randomly in a good mood! Wonder why

So following my last blog I just posted a blog on tick lists. As I said I wrote that a few weeks ago but I did not post it online for a couple of reasons that I won’t go into.

Since writing that blog I have been back to Malham. My goal there was to climb a 7a and try another 7a+.

So how did it got (if you know me you will know already was a lil excited)?

Well I woke up a bit worse for wear. I set off to the crag a little early to take it easy. When I got to the crag I had a full blown hangover. I was not that psyched so I let my mate climb first and set the draws for me.

Still feeling grim I belayed my mate clip stick his way up raindogs. Still feeling grim I eventually thought I would give it a go. I have done all but one move on the route (rose coronary) so time to get on lead I thought.

I got to the second bolt no problem. Then I was half way through the traverse and blew my sequence. I then rested on the second bolt and refreshed my mind of the moves. Remembering my sequence I linked to the next bolt on lead and rested on the bolt.

The one move I had not done was the crux move it’s a little awkward to work on toprope or on bolt to bolt. The move is far left from the lower off. The bolt is also a bit right of the move. You struggle to get set to be able to get slack from the belayer.
I hauled past the move as I was just warming up and got to the big under cut then dogged my way past to the top on lead to refine my sequence and work the position to clip the anchor.
 
After this I belayed a mate on raindogs and rested up.
 
Second RP attempt got to the end of traverse messed my feet and went for a bit of a ride. Since I fell low and took the swing I had a 5 min rest then had another go this time went better nailed the traverse with a whimper on the move I fell off on clipped the third bolt and reached for the good under cut hit the hold. Got confused I had done the move I had not before. Tried to work out what to do and gave up too early getting lower off felt shit!! I was not happy I had hit the hold and not completed.
 
After another long belay session and rest I went for it. 
 
The moves to the second bolt are easy each time I did it slightly different this time I did it what I found the easiest way. Got to the jugs at the second bolt had a quick shake out on the jugs traversed left clipped bolt two reversed and had another quick shake. Then I went for it
LH into the jug shuffle feet left LF on the spike rf on the good feet move rh to crimp turn in reach for the sidepull steady myself and then lh again in the gaston. High rf onto the jug and body tension to bring rh to the side pull a foot above the gaston. Rf into the high foot hold. Then shuffle lf high into the pocket. Front on I reach up to the side pull. Hit it with two fingers in the metal symbol instead of my whole hand. Refusing to give up I pulled hard and got my rh in the undercut and sorted lh to turn it in the good side pull pinch that it is.
Brought my rf high to get in balance clip the third bolt then straight into the crux sequence. Big reach with left to the good crimp. Right straight to the side pull pinch intermediate. Sorted my feet and reached to the good undercut. I brought my left high to the good foot and moved up to the massive jug. As I went up foot slipped and I had a complete superman moment only point of contact was the undercut. Still going for the jug time seemed to slow I was off for all purposes but I kept going just as I came off the under cut my left hit the jug. I grunted with rage and Swore. I pulled as hard as I could and go my hands back on. My feet at this point felt like they were four foot behind me. Engage core. Sucked in and high heel clip fourth bolt. At the rest shook out for a little while but I wasn’t recovering.
I took in a deep breath. Rh to crimp at bottom of the tufa on the right. Pulled on the crimp lh to the big undercut at the bottom of the left tufa and then matched moved feet up ant clipped fifth bolt. Then the final sequence.
RH into the right tufa good side pull RF next to forth bolt. Lh to high pinch on the middle tufa. LF high out left Right foot outside edge to the notch near the bottom of the left tufa. Lock off and clip the chain. YES!!! Take! Sag on the rope and breath. I am drained.
 
The complete lack of style at the crux completely took it out of me, eventually I come round enough to strip the route.
I then sat down for what felt like ages. I was truly knackered. It felt awesome I got the tick. Style does not matter. I did it! I tried Frankenstein but I was tired so I called it a day and belayed for a while. Great day out
 
Sunday was a nice steady return to trad. It was a freshers trip from uni which means I normally fire off a load of routes up to VS and then solo about a bit and get stick.
I ended up with Tes the southerner (we won’t hold that against her .. maybe) who is a good laughand seems extremely keen.
I did alpha crack first S. She did the route with a little encouragement. To be honest she pissed it! Ben turned up as we were decending to the start of the route. I then lead Alpha (diff), well I say lead I did not place any gear just ran up it. Tes again followed with no problems.
I then convinced ben to Lead Great buttress (VS 4c) with a bit of pushing I seemed to reduce his usual faffage. He lead the route with ease. Tes Followed with no real issue it doing her hardest outdoor route to date.
I then soloed a VDiff I think is was on black slab.
Me, Ben and Tes moved on to the hell gate area. I lead Tower face (HS 4b) and Tes followed. Ben then lead Tower face and I followed. Next up I lead Himmelvillen (VS 4c) It was surprisingly pumpy for VS but no real issues.
Nick turned up as I was leading the route.
Tes put in a real effort trying to second the route but she was tired and the laybacking was too much for her arms. It’s always great watching some one trying hard. It reminds me why I love climbing at my limit.
I went off to meet nick at which point Ian turned up. He had left some quick draws at malham the day before so he came to retrieve them and also to try autumn wall E4 6a. compared to the guide. I was gonna try a E1 but got psyched out so lead a VS jamming crack. It was a nice route with a hard feeling crux for VS 4c but then again I can’t jam.
The day ended with me trying tensile test (e1 5c) again. Did not get it again. Spotter and beta required I think.
 
I have had an awesome weekend and past few days . I ended up going out Friday night, night in Saturday, pub Sunday, Monday I went to foundry with Tes, James and Ben, Last night I met mates for a pizza and a catch up then tonight had a good wall session. Tomorrow I am having a couple of people round for dvd’s and it looks like I might be out Friday night.
 
I am a quite quiet, shy person especially around new people but its been nice to socialise so much recently. I do come out my shell the more I am around people. More than a few people can testify to this! I think it helps build psyche which I am all about. So cheers everyone for the recent awesome times.

I would try list everyone but the list is too long.

Chorro only a couple of weeks away, Bring it on!

Chorro and tick Lists in general

So this is a blog I wrote a few weeks ago but never got round to posting.
 
Enjoy as much as you can with this rubbish
 
So I was asked what my goals for chorro were and if I would be interested in investing time into a hard redpoint. Some targets were suggested. I already had a few hard routes on my “to try” list.
When building a list of climbs that I want to get out of the trip. Last trip I put a list together of loads of routes I wanted to do that was stupidly long. It had loads well within my ability and many outside it.
So what do I want out of this trip?
I want to climb as hard as possible until I am truly broken. I want to be in such a state that when I head to the airport on the way home I can barely stand up. I want to push myself as hard as I can. As I said in a recent blog I don’t know what my limit is. I want to find out.
I am meeting a mate who is keen to get on 7b and harder. I have climbed soft 7a and 7a in a day. I have done all the moves on a 7a+ and a 7a when tired. If I can do the moves I can do the route it’s just a matter of determination and breaking the route down.
 
So what do I want to climb?
Arabesque 7a – It’s a heavily technical climb, not pumpy. This is not a fitness route. This is just linking the moves. I have done every move on the route. I just need to put them together.
I would like to try and onsight another 6c. I can onsight 6c but this feels like my onsight limit. I have come very close. On a couple of occasions (falling on the last move) and I have done it once.
I would love to try a proper flash attempt on a 7a. Draws in and being talked through the route move by move. Is that achievable? I do not know. This will be a fitness and execution test. I will need to be able to climb efficiently and have the fitness to do this. I have route fitness. I have been climbing sport all summer to try and keep this up.
I think I am a better climber than I was this time last year. I am a steadier climber than I was this time last year. I am more aware of my centre of gravity, I use rests better. I am reading rock better, but am I able to 7a flash? If I was more confident and not grade chasing could I of flashed consenting? I don’t think so.
With more confidence could I do it maybe.
So the list?
Well here are my key targets and style I would like:
Encantadas
Gros Rouge 7b
Sara 7a+
La Ley del cateto 6c+
Arabe
Arabesque 7a – A pre trip must!
Sheik tu dinero 6c+
Amor Sandunguero 6c
Diedre Torpedol 6c
Frontales
Amtrax 6a
The gorge
Tipo Sueca 7a
Desplo
Cosas Caseras 7a+ (ish)
Manzilla madness 7a
Loads of mid six mileage generally onsight or bust unless the line is really inspiring.