Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Chorro and tick Lists in general

So this is a blog I wrote a few weeks ago but never got round to posting.
 
Enjoy as much as you can with this rubbish
 
So I was asked what my goals for chorro were and if I would be interested in investing time into a hard redpoint. Some targets were suggested. I already had a few hard routes on my “to try” list.
When building a list of climbs that I want to get out of the trip. Last trip I put a list together of loads of routes I wanted to do that was stupidly long. It had loads well within my ability and many outside it.
So what do I want out of this trip?
I want to climb as hard as possible until I am truly broken. I want to be in such a state that when I head to the airport on the way home I can barely stand up. I want to push myself as hard as I can. As I said in a recent blog I don’t know what my limit is. I want to find out.
I am meeting a mate who is keen to get on 7b and harder. I have climbed soft 7a and 7a in a day. I have done all the moves on a 7a+ and a 7a when tired. If I can do the moves I can do the route it’s just a matter of determination and breaking the route down.
 
So what do I want to climb?
Arabesque 7a – It’s a heavily technical climb, not pumpy. This is not a fitness route. This is just linking the moves. I have done every move on the route. I just need to put them together.
I would like to try and onsight another 6c. I can onsight 6c but this feels like my onsight limit. I have come very close. On a couple of occasions (falling on the last move) and I have done it once.
I would love to try a proper flash attempt on a 7a. Draws in and being talked through the route move by move. Is that achievable? I do not know. This will be a fitness and execution test. I will need to be able to climb efficiently and have the fitness to do this. I have route fitness. I have been climbing sport all summer to try and keep this up.
I think I am a better climber than I was this time last year. I am a steadier climber than I was this time last year. I am more aware of my centre of gravity, I use rests better. I am reading rock better, but am I able to 7a flash? If I was more confident and not grade chasing could I of flashed consenting? I don’t think so.
With more confidence could I do it maybe.
So the list?
Well here are my key targets and style I would like:
Encantadas
Gros Rouge 7b
Sara 7a+
La Ley del cateto 6c+
Arabe
Arabesque 7a – A pre trip must!
Sheik tu dinero 6c+
Amor Sandunguero 6c
Diedre Torpedol 6c
Frontales
Amtrax 6a
The gorge
Tipo Sueca 7a
Desplo
Cosas Caseras 7a+ (ish)
Manzilla madness 7a
Loads of mid six mileage generally onsight or bust unless the line is really inspiring.

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