Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Frustration Day 1 to 3!!!!

So I set off at 4.20am on saturday morning. I picked up ben then vicky and drove to the airport.
We met up with the rest of team Hudds at the airport (JP, Alex, Nick and Rowan). The flight was fine but as we landed it was clear the weather forecast was correct and not what we wanted! It was looking very wet. After missing a train by 10 mins we sat on a platform for about another 50 mins.
We arrived at a damp Alora frustrated where we met team bristol (Tom, Brian and Mark). The day involved shopping, drinking and eating. It was too damp to climb :(
 
Day 2 the forecast was rain. Most people went off to do the camino, I wanted to climb so I sacked it off and waited for a mate in hope of finding dry rock. I eventually headed up to encontadas where I got back on project genecide again. I had fallen off this loads last year. I got up to the crux again climbing in fine just the humidity was extremly high and I was a sweatymess. Also the pockets were soaked I greasy out of a moist pocket. I got back on and did the move. I then fired out the crux no problem till I encountered another damp pocket and got spat out. I did the move againbut using a worse hold to avoid the damp pocket. then clipped the chains. I lowered off Alex top roped it and stripped the route.
Next up we ate some lunch. I was at a psyche low then it stareted to rain. We sacked it off and went back to the olive branch. Frustrated!
 
Day 3  another bad forcast day ...
The weather held off all day thank fully. I met up with Andy and we headed up to Desplo
I had been recommended Manzanilla Madness (7a) as a route to try before I went out to chorro.
So me and Andy headed up there. We warmed up on a nice 5 called Ostras Pedrin It flowed and climbed surprisingly well to say it looked crap. Next up we wanted another warm up so we went for Maritobi a 6a+. This looked wet be we thought sod it its only a 6a+ ... The route looked wet and it really was. It was drenched. The route was a shower leading up to a crux at the top involving a sloper and some side pulls on overhanging rock. I did the route no problem untill the last move committing to a soaking sidepull. I slapped to what looked like a good hold it wasn't. It was a poor flake and I was off. I got back up there and got the move I did it more direct off of side pulls and gastons.
Here is a picture that does not show how wet it actually was:
The oute follows the lime of dampness on the right then cuts across the face to the damp hole at the top middle of the picture and ends in the grey wet patch at the top of the picture.
Yes it was as pleasent as it sounds. Actually the moves were quite nice if it wasn't so wet.
Anyway Andy went up this next and did it with some faff on the wet crux.
 
Next up was Manzanilla Madness I decided to have a flash go. I tried the start abit too direct and flew off. I then clipped the second bolt with a clip stick and gave the start a go. The start is the physical crux.
You pull onto a steep wall in a postive pocket stretch your rf into another pocket. Lf onto a edge lf into a poor pocket. Reach rh to another good pocket. bring lf high to a diaganol edge. Now Rh mono time lock the good mono then slap to a good side pull adjust weight and slap rh again onto a really good hold. feet really high into a pocket and a edge lh onto a pinch.
So that's the psyical crux done you then get a easyish section with good rests. The next section is the redpoint crux. You have a steep pumpy section on some poorer holds ending in a stiff pull get onto a head wall which is a heavily technical slab ... Lovely!!
 
The route goes direct up the centre of the above picture then cuts out right on the upper slab.
First time from the ground I got my way to just before the head wall dogging it on lead.
I then had a go on top rope and made it to the top in bits. So whats next .. red point time. If I can do the moves on a top rope I can work it on lead.
First RP attempt I blasted through the physical crux then I got to the end of the redpoint crux but I came off pulling onto the head wall as I messed up my feet. Gutted!! That should of been it! I then worked my way to the top on lead. working the moves.
Next RP attempt I was even smoother then as I was doing the last move of the red point crux before the shake out I elbowed the wall and came off. FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had another RP attempt and messed up my feet mid RP crux and then came off on the last move of the RP crux again. I was knackered and I then worked my way to the top of the route. I did the slab with complete ease while completely done meaning if I can get through the RP crux I will do the route.
 
I was so close.
Here is a quick breakdown of the route
Bottom half physical crux
Top half of the route
 It's currently raining on day four and has been since last night ... :(

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