Monday, 31 December 2012

its over - 52 weeks in review

Since my last blog I got outside once I ended up at almscliff finding a small window between rain to climb. I fell off the top out of flying arĂȘte repeatedly so no new tick.
So what have in done this year?
My UKC score card reads:
39 routes (not including repeats)
Max grade E1
36 routes
Max grade: 7a
111 problems (plus many from font not recorded)
Max grade: 6C
So that's nice numbers but what does it actually mean .. well
What have I achieved this year?
I have pushed my maximum sport grade from 6b+ to 7a.
I pushed my sport grade from 6B to 6C
Trad I have stagnated at E1 onsight
What has been a disappointment?
The main thing has been the weather. This year has been appauling. I am sat hear staring at another wet day. Really wet. Its hammering it down.
I am slightly disappointed I did not push my trad grade but it has not been my focus this year.
I was disappointed not to climb a 6 in font, but I had a great week. Anyway.
Generally it has been a fantastic year.
Where have I been?
This year I have been all over the world. My work has taken me to china and to Abu Dhabi, but more importantly I have been on a few climbing trips.
Pembroke - birthday trip long week climbing trad in south wales.
Lakes - I finally lead a route in the lakes which was great.
North Wales - Llanberis slate, Tremadog, A55, Orme Love it all. Wish I had gone to gogarth
A panorama from Miners Track
Peak - obviously more than a couple of trips
Dan Lane on Trackside
Yorkshire - loads grit and lime
Me on Demon Wall Almscliff
Chew - Less than other years
Fontainebleau - Wow!!!! what a place.
Me climbing in Font
Costa Blanca - Sports climbing
Simon on Muscleman
El Chorro - wash out :(
Best part of the year?
Hard to say font was great fun.
Ticking my first 7a in costa blanca.
7a in a day at Malham
So What has changed?
I have been happier to do what I want to do not just going along with mates. I have used this year to get stronger change focus and look at my weakness'. I was also pretty drawn to bold and dangerous trad so this year I climbed on safer routes bouldered a lot to strength and I have been really enjoying it.
Trying hard at sport has opened my eye to the pleasure of working something rather than the onsight being everything.
I have explored different rock types. This opened my eyes further. Grit is good and all but there is some great rock out there. I have not even tried granite yet.
Anything else new?
I have recently started doing some cooking here is some of the meals I have made recently

I have many goals for next year some are very ambitious but I will go through them in another blog.

Saturday, 22 December 2012

its not over yet

The year is almost over, but not yet.
I still have goals I have not given up no time to slack off!
Inspiration for anyone reading this:
So what have I got left to achieve in a year when I have achieved so much?
I want to lead a route harder than E1. I have lead a couple of E1's this year and I am approaching them without fear. So I guess E2 is the obvious goal. I have one trad trip planned before the year ends to the slate with my goals being on the rainbow ...
This year has been pretty bad weather wise and I have been focussing on sport. This has resulted in less time and interest in trad but never say never.
Bouldering I would love another 6C or to at least finish a few 6B projects. I have been having brief sessions on pebble wall but not got close. I managed a new 6A at almscliff satuday so I might give the 6C version a blast next visit.
Sport I have written this off for the year I think But then again if my trad trips a wash out I might try and grab some sport mileage as I have not climbed routes in a while.
Looking forward.
I am trying to avoid looking at next year yet as I have not given up on this year. I have goals I want to achieve next year but looking from the outside these seem pretty over optimistic. I am not going to list them out till next year. As I need to focus on making the most of this year all 9 days left.