Wednesday, 19 June 2013


I was at almscliff again.
I tried flying arete again.
I fell off the top again.
Since I started climbing I have always ended up with projects. I started climbing at Huddersfield wall. Its crap but the bouldering wall had its little quirks. They also had a circuit board at a good angle which was fun.
I used to climb on the ropes mainly but I always had projects on the boulder wall. My first was to climb the corner by the door this became climb it with feat features only, then features only then eliminating holds. When I moved to climbing outdoors. I was very much a trad climber with an onsight only focus. this meant I did not have projects however I did progress fast through the grades to VS. My bouldering was poor and I did not really develop fast. I was trad climbing moves as hard as I was bouldering. However I was trying things and holmfirth became the home of me falling off. Projects came and eventually they have gone form impossible to feeling possible.
Having a goal that fells hard is good. Having a project that fells impossible is also good but for me not as good as achievable ones.
I have had projects that have lasted years (I have only been climbing 4 years). Thelongest was probably upside down arete. I most of spent 20 sessions on this a year for 3 years before I eventually did it. I have not repeated it.
I like projects I like the feeling of joy the development. The out of reach goal that you are tickling just need to find a bit more reach.
Flying arete is a project at the moment which is strange as when I first tried it I thought that would be fun to do quick while frustrated by pebble wall. 9 months later I am still trying it.
I started barely able to pull on to the problem to at chirstmas falling off the top out 6 times in a session.
Sunday I had lost a bit of muscle memory but I still got to the top move and fell off. The goal is achievable I just need to get weight over my left knee and I will tick the problem but its now just a frustration.
Also a 7A eliminate at Holmfirth is another project. It felt deperate when I first thought of trying it 2 years ago. I tried it with Proff Tom this year and we unlocked the sequence in a session. Neither of us got it that session. Tom got it next session. It is a hard 7A according to him. 7A was a finger in the air goal for the year I have done 6C before at holmfirth but knowhere else. So I want to tick more 6C's and a 7A is all I wanted to achieve bouldering wise this year.
The goal is there I just need to reach a bit further.
I know its grade chasing. I don't care. I want to do flying arete because I love the moves. I want to do this Eliminate for the grade. I want to climb the grade.
Until I latch the top hold on both they will continue to be a frustration. These both originally were impossible targets but now I feel like they achievable just frustrating until I get the tick. Until then I will keep coming back with this in my head.
I was at almscliff again.
I tried flying arete again.
I fell off the top again.

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