Tuesday, 9 July 2013

Fun, Games and Stupidity

These blogs are coming thick and fast at the moment.
 
Last week I had two sessions which is pretty bad with the weather as it is, but most of my regular partners were away.
 
On the wednesday I went to Wharncliffe. Its not my favourite place by any stretch of the imagination but I decided to get out with a little persuading. I warmed up ticking a HS called slab and corner I had not done before. It was okay probably not worth both of its stars in the guide.
It starts on a nice slab with quite smeary and slightly intimidating moves above  a pile of shitty spiky rocks. after this you get some gear in the corner which is two mantels. The mantels are a little unpleasant and off set the great start.
I did it with no really issue and Tom followed me. I then soloed a S which looked great and really hard for severe, it was.
Tom then lead the cheese block which got HS in the guide apparently this grade with a side runner (I would not let tom used the crack) so it gets VS apparently. It has a tough first move then easy moves to the top. I followed with no really issue.
To end the night I lead Great Buttress Arete an E1. E1 is still a grade I need to try on and happy when I do clean. I set off with a little bit of confidence and a light rack (not much gear on the route). The route is pretty sustained between half rest very smeary. I think there are 3 5b moves on it and the gear is small cams in shallow, slightly flared pockets. 3x5b moves on a E1 is not too bad normally but when the route is barely 10m it packs them in. I felt I was reasonably fast except for stalling out on the top move. I hung around for a bit not really trusting my gear before committing to a big reach.
Trusting my gear seems to be an issue. I think I need to take some trad lead falls (proper ones not slumps) to get my head in gear. I guess that means I need to keep trying harder routes till I fall. Tom followed then soloed a few things to end the night (the midges were coming and the sun was setting).
 
Friday I went to blackstones and had a great evening. It was a new crag for me. We parked up under the M62 by J22 and walked in from the south. Its recommended to walk in from the north but The south approach is less of a drive.
The walk in is gently uphill all the way and around 30 mins. We arrived at heuco blocks and decided to climb them. I started on a Fb5 wall which was not great but did it first time. I then tried the arete to the left of it a Fb6A it was a great problem that would get a lot harder with more traffic. Your feet are smearing on dishes and the hands are reasonable. The moves take some trust in friction. I happily got this second go. I did the arete on the other side of the same bloc which was a pleasant Fb5.
Sticking with the arete theme I next tried an arete right of the wall I did as a warm up. I got it in a couple of goes. This was another great problem reaching off a good sidepull with high feet to a sloper on the top of the boulder sort feet and work you match the sloper then top out. 
To end the heuco bloc session I tried the wall on the opposite where I started. It was a one move Fb6B problem the crux was pulling on the slapping a good rail. Alex who i was with tried it and could not work out the move. I then sat at the base of the problem confused for a while. I eventually worked so beta which involved you left foot heel hooking at head height and toe lightly camming against a slopey sidepull and your right foot smearing on poor hold below your left foot. Left hand on a good pinch/crimp and right hand on a shite slopey. You then need to pull like fuck and slap the rail. Awesome move. I worked out how to do it reasonably quickly (<5mins) but it then took some time and giving up only to have one more go twice.
The time I hit the rail I did it. :o)
 
After this we moved on to another area. We saw some hideous looking offwidth high ball. Which I coaxed Alex into doing I tried but really could not be arsed with the fight.
 
We ended up on Robins Dyno bloc where we fired out another 3 problems. A 5+ traverse and a 5+ arete. I also tried robins dyno but was about 6in short of the jug. To end the session we both did a 6B wall. It was another 1 mover using poor slopey crimps reaching to a good crimp and then a jug above. The problem is really balancey. Alex did it first side on outside edging with his left foot. This did not work for me as I kept hitting my elbow on my knee. I then tried again front on and did it.
 
So it was a very successful evening 2x5 2x5+ 2x6A and 2x6B
 
I got some footage but not as good as I had hoped anyway enjoy.
 

 
When I sort out the pictures I will upload them too.

After this session I was extremely psyched for a weekend of bouldering. However I went to the skate park with my mate late friday night and we ended up messing about in a kids playground. After trying to do front lever on the monkey bars and pull ups on some logs of wood I thought lets see howfast the round about can go round. I grabbed the rail and sprinted to a lap of the round about then I jumped on. Not realising this was an old pre-health and safety roundabout it jerked faster as I landed on it this caused me to swing off the round about back wards. I by reflex put my foot down to stop me falling but I kept spinning roundand my foot stayed planted. Basically I bent my knee a long way back and struggled to walk all weekend.. Well done dickhead you wasted a great weather weekend being injured. What a twat!

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