So I have been back a few days now.
Looking back at squamish I have absolutely no regrets giving up almost a years worth of holiday on one trip. So here is my breif take on the place.
Ease of Access - the boring stuff
Once you are at squamish everything is a short drive away. I imagine without a car it would be difficult to do everything with out a lot of motivation. For example seal cove is a long way down the road from the cheif campground/squamish down town. It is an amazing and quiet location for an easy day. Hitching would be a possibilty but the notice board might not get you a lift easily (having not used the notice board I could not say).
Also if the weather craps out cheakamus is a drive away so agian with out a car its a hitching job or notice board for lifts.
Most of the crags have a short walk in which is always nice but the car park areas can be a little crowded. I went at the end of the season so probably missed the worst of it.
From the air port the drive is reasonably straight forward but I took a wrong turning both times trying to get through down town vancouver. The sea to sky is a great road to drive on.
The Crags - My take
While in squamish we tried most of the crags. Here is what I though of them.
Murrin park - It was a nice introduction to granite lots of low grade routes with harder things next to it. Also it had a really nice lake for swimming in it.
Seal Cove - beautiful but lacking in steeper angles and harder climbs. Great for a hot easy day pottering.
Cheakamus - I only went to forgotten wall but it reminded me of giggleswick south which I always thought that in another country people just would not bother with it. It is a wet day option as it stays dry but it was shit! However there was a nice 7a
Smoke Bluffs - Good climbing but too urban I felt I was climbing in some ones garden.
Shannon Falls - too busy (stupid 5.7 crack)
Shannon Falls - too busy (stupid 5.7 crack)
Bulletheads - Not the most inspiring from the base. However I did one of the best pitches of climbing I have ever done there.
Base of the grand wall - Again not overly keen. There is no real warm ups. It all starts at 5.10b but the routes look amazing if you are climbing a bit harder than I was
The Apron - A great place to get into the multi pitching. Nice easy grades did not feel too commiting and a fast drying option. Gets a bit warm in the sun.
The Chief in general - The best place I have ever climbed in my life. Brillinat climbing at every grade. Every type of climbing and amazing views. Easy access and fantastic situations.
My tick list (exported from UKC)
|Climb name||Grade||Style||Partner(s)||Date||Crag name|
|Any Lip'll Do||V0||Sent O/S||simon||19-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Any Rock'll Do||V1 *||Sent O/S||simon||19-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Flourescent Black||V0||Sent O/S||simon||19-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Sphinx'ter Quits||5.8 **||Lead O/S||simon, bex||18-Sep-13||Little Smoke Bluffs|
|Quarryman||5.8 ***||Lead O/S||simon, bex||18-Sep-13||Little Smoke Bluffs|
|Health Hazard||5.10a **||Lead O/S||simon, bex||18-Sep-13||Little Smoke Bluffs|
|Popeye and the Raven||5.10d ***||2nd||simon||18-Sep-13||Little Smoke Bluffs|
|Fun Gus Arete||V0||-||17-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Rambles||5.8 ***||Lead O/S||bex||15-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|Bronze Traverse||V0||Sent O/S||bex||15-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Ain't Easy Being Easy||V0||Sent O/S||bex||15-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Banana Peel||5.7 ***||AltLd O/S||hobbit||13-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|Squamish Buttress||5.10c ***||AltLd O/S||hobbit||13-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|The Butt Light||5.9 *||AltLd O/S||hobbit||13-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|Granville Street||5.8 *||AltLd O/S||hobbit||13-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|Zoe||5.10a ***||Lead O/S||simon||11-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Jugs, Not Drugs||5.8||Lead O/S||simon||11-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Squamish Days||V0 **||Sent O/S||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Fried Ant||V0 ***||Sent O/S||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Easy Peezy||V0||Sent O/S||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Bob Barker Cut My Dog's Nuts Off||V1||Sent O/S||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Spotters on Strike||V0||Sent O/S||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Squamish Days Traverse||V2 *||Sent x||simon||10-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Bubble Buddy||5.8 **||Lead O/S||simon||09-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Lost Horizon||5.10b ***||2nd||simon||09-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Future and a Hope||5.9 **||2nd||simon||09-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Barknuckles||5.8 ***||Lead O/S||simon||09-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|The Seal Cove Traverse||5.9 **||Lead O/S||simon||09-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Summer Vacation||V0 ***||Sent O/S||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|The Warm-Up||V1||Sent O/S||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Superfly Slab||V0 *||Sent O/S||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Dyke Surfer||V0 **||Sent O/S||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|One Track||V1||Sent O/S||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Nick's Idea||V1||Sent x||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Easy Traverse||V1||Sent x||hobbit, bex||08-Sep-13||Grand Wall Boulders|
|Bullethead East||5.10c||Lead||simon||07-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|Forgotten Realm||5.10a *||Lead O/S||bex||06-Sep-13||Cheakamus Canyon|
|Shaggy||5.9||Lead O/S||simon||06-Sep-13||Cheakamus Canyon|
|Cornflakes||5.7 **||Lead O/S||bex||05-Sep-13||Little Smoke Bluffs|
|One Scoop with Delicious Dimples||5.10c ***||Lead O/S||bex||04-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|The Bottom Line||5.9 **||Lead O/S||bex||04-Sep-13||Squamish Chief|
|The Boot||V0||Sent O/S||bex||02-Sep-13||Apron Boulders, Squamish|
|Stinky||V0||Sent O/S||bex||02-Sep-13||Apron Boulders, Squamish|
|Holiday in Cambodia||5.8 **||Lead O/S||simon||01-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Power Smart||5.8 **||Lead O/S||simon||01-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Oscar's Slab||5.8 **||Lead O/S||simon||01-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
|Thriller Off the Void||5.11b ***||2nd||simon||01-Sep-13||Murrin Park|
Bulletheast east first pitch. Completely brilliant route lovely moves about 40m of constanstly amazing moves.
Zoe - After not trying it on the first day to go back and do as a warm up was a fantastic feeling.
Banana Peel - As good as everyone says
The Butt lite - Exposed HVS pitch laybacking then traversing over a massive drop. Then a chimney with one of the best views in the world?
Summer Vacation - A classic for a reason. It's high ball 5-6m but you dont realise as the moves are so good!
Superfly - I would of done it if I tried it more but was pretty intense for me.
Fried Ants - Nice easy moves and a fantastic top out
Probably the length of my ticklist. I forget when you do a big route that you normally only get one tick for it but it does reduce the number of different routes you have done.
My performance on Khalanie Crack. I can try use the hang over excuse but really I was just a punter.
Smoke Bluffs urban situation
Not swimming in murrin park lake (I did swim in Alice lake though)
The lack of sharp knivies in the apartment
The price of beer
The quality of the bouldering. I knew it was going to be good but it was ... Possibly as good as font!
Seeing a bear late at night in a carpark.
Topping out the chief after 19 pitches by soloing a 10m slab at 600m above sea level
Other Cool things
Howe Sound Brew house - Quality!
The apartment - More like a house
The kitchen in the apartment - Massive
Making a roast dinner - I love cooking roast pork and potato's
How friendly everyone was
The people I was with
Pub - Howe Sound brewery
Breakfast/cafe - Big D's
Route - .. too many but probably Bullethead East P1 as a single pitch the upper pitches looked amazing too.
Boulder Problem - Summer Vacation
The trip was expensive.
Flights were £600 return
Motel for 2 nights $90 each (split between two) (£55-60)
Car hire £170ish Each (£670 for three weeks)
Food £15+ per day
Drink £5-6 per beer
Would I go back
Would I go Back Next Year
To justify the trip you need at least 2 weeks which is half my years holiday allocation. I will go back just not next year .. unless someone turns round to me and says I am booking a trip do you want to come ... I would strongly think about it.