Thursday, 12 September 2013

Beautiful weather and locations

Wow seal cove is amazingly beautiful and secluded.

This was the view when we arrived.
I was eager to get going after a couple of easy days and jumped on what I thought was the most prominent line at the crag. Its called barknuckle. you traverse a long the water level crack then at about 15m along it starts to rise diagonally across the crag. So I set off. Great climbing in a great setting. The routes were a good length too all in the region of 30m+. 
Next up simon in his usual fashion went after the (second) hardest route at the crag. It follows a nice blank face to a crack. It dissects a blank wall climbing over a small over lap. I followed with ease definately a harder lead as its pretty run out. I then fired out a 5.8 crack. Me and Simon then had a break relaxing in the sun and took some photos.
Taken by Si Hughes
Taken by Si Hughes
What else is there to do in such a picturesque location. The day ended with Simon leading the above route and me following.

We called it a day as we were all pretty tired. We proceeded to drink a bottle of rum and several beers between us which may have effected the state of play the following day.

Sticking with the picturesque crags we planned on going to Shannon falls. Named after the water fall that is at the left hand end of the crag.
Keen and hanging .. I decided to fire out the classic 5.7 Klahanie Crack. Or so I thought. I will be honest am not the best crack climber. So a pure jamming crack is never going to go well. 

The second picture is almost as far as I got. By this point I was just about out of gear and had some crap wires which would not hold. I was exhasted and my ankles were in agony from being torqued into jams. Sweating and facing a 10m slide down a slab I through in 3 crap bits of gear. An aweful wallnut 9 a half in camalot 2 and okayish no. 11 wallnut and got simon to slowly lower me down. 
When I got down my hands were mullered my ankles screaming with pain unable to stand up I sat on the floor for 5 mins to recover. 

I managed 18m of a 25m jamming crack. Disappointed with my performance simon ran up it leaving blood in the crack for the next person. 
I decided that was enough routes for the day and went for a walk to see the falls. Everyone else did one more route then joined me. 

After doing the tourist thing we did the british thing and headed to the pub where we decided our next plan. Which turned out to be bouldering. 
We grabbed the pads and went to the chief boulder grounds. 
Simon and Hobbit were on V4s I decided to do a load of milage again and fired outs some high ball V0's without pads then did a hard V1 over a bad landing with out a pad ... Was almost painful. 
I then ticked a few classic V0-V2s generally padless leaving the rest to work hard stuff over pads
Fried Ants Top 100 V0
Knackered we called it a night after we all did Squamish days traverse.

Today me and Simon went out with an Insect overlord (Toby of UKB fame). We did some sport climbing at murrin park in baking heat. I warmed up ticking the classic Zoe 5.10a then we tried the classic 7a (5.11d) Burning down the couch. Burning was right small crimps nad 30 deg heart don't mix. Nice route will lead it on a cooler day. Me and simon decided to have a rest and relaxed by Murrin parks lake.

Toby had been climbing with a local who had to lead so we headed back to the trees and I lead a great juggy 5.8 then tried to flash a 5.11c but failed due to exhaustion really. 
Toby then tried a 5.12b up the steepest section of the rock. 

We then called it a day I am feeling pretty physically broken. The heat is ridiculous. I am hiding in my room at min hoping the temp drops soon

No comments:

Post a Comment