Tuesday, 3 September 2013

I'm Here - its intimidating

As always my trip started with the painful packing process working what I need and what I can not bother with. Weight was a major worry. going for three weeks with just a couple of sets of clothes. is hard. I have about 4/5 days of clothes with me so I am glad we are in the apartment so I can do my washing.
Most my bag and weight was taken up by this lot:
Cheesy gear pic
The flight felt like hours (it was 10) no personal screen so I could not watch a film of my choice. They had some films on a screen at the end of the section however my earphone socket was blocked. Thankfully I had my nexus with a few films on it. 
When we got to Vancouver we were hit with a stupidly long queue to cross the board then another to go through customs where we got held up as one of our trip (not me) was refused a visa on the board. Next was the car hire place which was another hour long queue. We eventually got out of the air port with the below dodge car

The car for the next three weeks
 After a painful introduction to driving automatics and on the wrong side of the road. We got to squamish around 6/7pm we were staying at the hotel squamish. where they had forgotton to sort out an extra bed for us. So I ended up on a camping bed (sigh). But we went out for meal at the Howe brew house which does really nice food and brews there own beer. After a feast where we were all falling asleep at the table we headed back for an early night. 
We woke up on sunday (early due to jetlag) to beautiful sunshine and we were all eager to get out. after much debate we decided on heading to smoke bluff then went for breakfast at big D's where we decided to head to murrins park instead. 

We arrived at the car park and decided to head to the sugar loaf. We managed to get lost with in two minutes of setting off. We should of consulted the guide ..
I decided to start easy so I jumped on blank looking slab 5.8 which looked gear less I took a few cams and placed then all. It was a nice introduction to granite friction climbing. Simon then lead it after I lowered and cleaned the gear. Next up was a very hard looking 5.8 up a steep corner crack system. Which turned out to be straight forward. This was a great route and not like anything you get back home at the grade. Steep well protected crack systems with varied moves. 
Feeling a bit adventurous I decided to try a 5.11b next with was mixed trad and bolts. I found a tough move quite early before the protection so I backed off and Simon took over. He fired out the route with out too many issues. I seconded with two falls probably E2/3 6a with the bolts. Next I tried a .10c to the right up a really nice curving crack but took too lead falls so I let simon lead it. He did it eventually after having to come down due to the sun blinding him at the bold crux.
11b on the left up the thin crack 5.10c up the curving crack on the right
We ended the day doing a few sports routes. near an amazing lake which I am desperate to go for a swim in when we next go back to murrins park. 
We ended the day at Howes again its amazing. 

This is a longer blog than I expected so will write more up later.

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