Monday, 9 September 2013

Post number 102 - That many? really?

The day after we the walk to the top of the cheif was a wipe out I had nothing left in my legs. 
We checked out Smoke Bluffs it was a amazing but I wasn't my legs hurt I was physically tired and was struggling. I did a 5.7 called corn flakes then decided to call it a day. 
Turns out climbing around 200m+ and then walking up from 50m to 650m (above sea level) in just a few miles is a killer on the legs .. shocking.
The day after my legs still hurt be I was keen to get out. We went to the camp ground wall on the chief. Simon went first and did a nice looking 5.10c crack that started at fists to a rest and then in to hands then fingers. he was pumped at the end of it. For my route I decided to try a fantastic looking 5.9 first pitch to a 3 pitch 5.10c.
The route takes the obvious flake line up the middle of the picture above. IT started up a slightly damp crack for 10m then 30-40m of sustained lay backing up a varied width flake. I topped out with absolute killer rope drag. Simoned followed me up then we abbed back down. Low psyche was the issue of the day. Simon wanted to save himself for the grand wall then next day and Hobbit just did not feel like climbing so we sacked it off and went to relax by a lake. Which I went for a swim in.

Yesterday Simon went off early to climb the grand wall with toby from UKB. So Me bex and Hobbit went bouldering. I just wanted to tick loads of things. We arrived a great looking high ball slab so I fired that off as a warm up. Hobbit was trying superfly which we thought was a V2 turns out that is the arete and superfly is V4. A nice local (well from calgary 12hour drive) showed us how to do it he was warming up to try the egg on the other side of the boulder. 
After a couple of tries I realised it was not forme today super fly so I did a couple of easier things to get warm. 
I found a nice 1 move boulder problem just behind superfly at V1. It involves a powerful pull on a undercut crimp then a slap for a jug at the top. I got Bex and James to try it but they did not manage.

Hobbit continued to work superfly while the nice local (did not get his name) showed me to summer vacation which is a top 100 problem. It is a V0 high ball. Its about 5/6m high on jugs and about 30° over hanging. Its a nice indoor warm up type route. I fired that out not realising high high it was until the top out as the moves are so good and so easy. I went back to superfly and james was still trying it. He dropped the top out just as I got back there. 
2 mins later he got back on and did it. 

Next we moved on to the famous easy in an easy chair (V4) I felt the holds but as I am useless with heel hooks I gave up quickly choosing to do the V1 the other side of the boulder. Hobbit tried it for a bit but no cigar. I spent the rest of the day firing out V0's and V1's. Also falling off of a V2 repeatedly on the last move (I think I was too tall for it). Tired I left Bex and Hobbit bouldering and went to relax in the grand wall car park. I tried to take some pictures of simon on grand wall. Look for the yellow helmet at the top of split pillar.

After a while Bex and Hobbit met me and we just rested in the sun. We then headed back to summer vacation area where I showed it to them and I did the V1 variation start. 
They both then got stuck into sloppy poppy (v4) but I was tired at this point so decided just to go back to relaxing in the sun. 
I randomly bumped into Pete and tom of wideboyz fame who were looking for the boulders and dream catcher while on a rest day. I went back to Hobbit and bex about 40 mins later and they were still under sloppy poppy with some random guy sat by them playing his guitar all a little surreal. 
We ended the day at Howe Sound Brewery again where I was greatly disappointed to find they had run out of steak!!!! My first time of ordering one on the holiday as well but I had a nice burger instead. 

Todays plan is seal cove but it will be interesting to see what happens as we were all knackered last night. 

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