Thursday, 16 January 2014

Er What Now?

Stereotypical start to blog ..
I have not blogged in a while.
I blogged once in November and before that it was October. Maybe I should just stop?

I don’t know why I write this blog really. It’s just something to do I guess?

Since my last blog I have hit a wall in my climbing. I was ecstatic to tick flying arête but then I realised I had nothing left I wanted to do.

Open Projects:

Old Lace 6C – never really put much effort into this one. Maybe time I did?
7A left of holmeward bound – Hit the top jug with my fingers tips but foot popped before I could latch it.
Yendor 6B+ - Wanted to try this for a while but need a good spot and confidence on top move above the block.

Remergence 6B – Was very close until it rained 18 months ago. Not been back
Cleo’s Arete 5+ - Beautiful should go first try when I go back not been on it in 2½ years
Tiger 6B – Just knacky and destroys skin

Not to be taken away 6C – frustrating times working the first move. Is it really only eng 6a?

Other bits and pieces.

Crucifix arête 6A+
Crucifix traverses 6A+ / 6C+
Pebble Wall 6C
None of these make me desperate to return to the crag this minute Like how I was with flying arête.

Abroad I have unfinished business:
La Surplomb de lepraux 6A L’Elephant Font
La Marie Rose 6A Bas Cuvier Font
Arabesque 7a Arab steps El Chorro

These I am keener to get done but there are obvious more challenging factors involved in these routes (i.e. the distance)

I also want to go see Gary and Mel at the Olive Branch in El Chorro. But the fact I want to see them more than I want to climb there suggests to me I might prefer to go somewhere else.

I really want to go to Kalymnos but it is looking pricey. I also fancy an adventure somewhere. I want to go somewhere a little more unusual like Ireland, Sardinia etc.

I guess I just want to do so much that I have not really picked my trips for this year. Last year I had my year planned out. March sport climbing with Nik and Si. September Squamish. Christmas Font!

This made training and planning easy. I need something to focus on or my willingness to train disintegrates faster than tissue paper in a fire.

Anyway these musing are bollox.

I barely climbed outside in December but I went to font over new years. As previously it was amazing and frustrating. We had an awkward time climbing around the damp but we climbed dry rock every day which at the time of year was great. Still no 6 climbed in font though

Here are some pictures from Craig Bailey. Check out his flickr account here: Rockjedi

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